Khadi fabric is an old organic textile produced by rural people in the Indian subcontinent. India was full of natural resources for the time being. The people of India were self-sufficient. They made their own food, clothes, and accessories. When the outsiders started ruling the peace-loving people of India, Mahatma Gandhi became a leader, and his khadi dhuti (trousers) became a vital tool of revolution. 

The story is fascinating, and so is the fabric! Although times have changed, Gandhi’s organic fabric moto and empowering the rural population is still very relevant to this day.

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This article will contain an in-depth introduction, history overview, production process, types, pros and cons, and more. Let’s start!

What is Khadi fabric?

Khadi, often called Khoddor, is a natural fabric made with plain weaving. It is handmade and handspun. It is usually made with organic cotton, but silk and wool are also used. Different blends of materials are often used to make khadi.

Once, most parts of India used to make khadi fabric for day-to-day use. In the Indian subcontinent, “weaver” was a common occupation. Farmer families also made the fabric for personal use. But when foreign fabrics entered the market, khadi started losing its golden days. (more on history) 

Still, khadi fabric is woven from different parts of India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh. Cumilla Khadi, (made from Cumilla distrcit, Bangladesh) is very famous. However, the process is semi-automated nowadays. But still, it’s one of the most environmentally friendly fabrics in the world. And it might have the answer to a sustainable world.  

Fun fact: Do you know that khadi and muslin are made similarly? Muslin is also a type of cotton khadi. But muslin is more focused on luxury & delicate appearance.

At A Glance

Industrial Name	Khadi.
Origin	India, Bangladesh.
Other Names	Khoddor.
Construction	Hand spun and weaved.
Weight	Thick but not so heavy.
Color	Comes with natural colors.
Airflow	Very breathable.
Moisture Absorbance	High absorbance.
Weaving	Plain Weaving.
Stretch	No.
Heat Insulation	Warm in winter, cool in summer.
Shrinkage Ratio	A little.
Usage	Dresses, dhuti, skirts, shirts, shari and more.

A Brief History of Khadi Fabric

The history of Khadi is so vast that there can be a book of seven volumes. Why? Let me show you the big picture so you get the context. 

The colonization history of India was centered around fabrics. India was the first victim of the industrial revolution. When countries like Britain started their fabric industries, they needed vast resources and a market to sell it. What can be a better place than India? 

Foreign companies came to India and flooded the market with their cheap fabric. They controlled the population so they could make capital easily. They tried to destroy native products like muslin and khadi. While muslin was made in some specific parts of Dhaka and Bangladesh, Khadi was popular in most of India.

Mahatma Gandhi used Khadi as a tool of revolution. It became a symbol of boycotting the foreign goods that were enforced on the people. 

Some historical points about Khadi

• Roman merchants used to import large quantities of Khadi fabric in their empire.
• The fabric was imported to Rome with the Silk Road.
• The fabric was imported to Bagdad, China, and many Arab countries. It was mentioned in Ibne Botuta’s writings.
• The production got a massive drop after the Indian War in 1857. 
• Khadi became a symbol of revolution in the Swadeshi movement (1901-1904)
• The Khadi department was started in 1922 at the request of Gandhi.
• After India was divided, the ideology of Khadi also remained in India. Pakistan did not encourage it due to political reasons.

However, khadi remained a part of rural culture in the Indian subcontinent. In the last few decades, khadi once again regained its popularity due to its beauty, comfort, and sustainability. It holds a good place in today’s fashion and fabric industry.

How is Khadi fabric made?

Traditionally, khadi fabric has been made with a spinning wheel and hand loom. Now, some parts of the production can be automated. Let’s go through the steps of making khadi fabric.

1. Cotton collection: Cotton is brought or collected from the trees for khadi production. Local cotton breads are mostly used for khadi production. 
2. Ginning: Seeds and impurities are removed from the cotton in the ginning process.
3. Spinning: Yarn is made with a spinning wheel. The yarn-making process is time-consuming and requires patience.
4. Warping yarn: Cotton yarns are warped and increased thickness and strength.
5. Weaving: Then, the yarn is fed in a traditional handloom machine. Plain weaving techniques are used to make khadi fabric.
6. Dyeing: Next, the fabric is dyed with organic color.

Types of Khadi Fabric

There are three main types of khadi fabric. Let’s have a look at them.

Cotton khadi: Cotton khadi fabric is the most common type of khadi. West Bengal produces the most amount of cotton khadi fabric. They also called it muslin fabric, although— muslin is different in characteristics than khadi.

Silk Khadi: Silk Khadi fabrics are the most expensive. They are made with Matka silk or Ahimsa silk. Waste of mulberry silk is also used to make khadi fabric. Silk khadi is smooth and has a thin appearance. Panjabi, tops, shares, and other fabrics are made with silk khadi fabric.

Mix khadi fabric: Khadi fabric can be made with cotton, silk, and other types of mixed fabric. Those fabrics also contain mixed characteristics.

Wool khadi: Wool khadi is quite popular for winter wear. Shawl, sweaters, and scarves are made with woolen khadi. Pashmina is the most expensive type of woolen khadi made with goat wool.

Characteristics of Khadi fabric

Characteristics of khadi fabric depend on the material. Cotton, wool, and silk will obviously show different characteristics. However, as cotton is the most popular, let’s talk more about cotton khadi fabric here. We also have a cotton khadi fabric in our hands to share practical insights with you.

Appearance

Khadi fabric is thick and has textures. Depending on the thickness of the yarn, both texture and thickness can vary. Silk ones are smooth and non-textured. Khadi fabric has an undeniable natural beauty. 

Skin-friendly

When it comes to skin-friendliness, khadi is top-tier. It’s made with a hundred percent organic materials and without any harmful chemicals. For the same reason, it’s one of the most sustainable fabrics.

Yarn quality

We took out the yarn carefully and looked at it under a magnifying glass. The yarn is skillfully twisted and comes with high quality.

Breathability

Khadi fabric is highly breathable. It’s a wonderful fabric for Indian temperate weather. The small pores of the fabric will allow air to pass easily. 

Heat absorption

Khadi fabric does not absorb much heat. It’s naturally cool and comfortable to wear. Khadi fabric mostly comes with light color. Light colors reduce the heat absorption.

Stretch

Natural khadi does not have any stretch. However, there are some artificial types of khadi named poly khadi. Poly khadi contains 2% of stretch.

Water absorption

Khadi fabric has fantastic water absorption abilities. It will absorb your sweat fast and keep you cool and fresh.

Transparency

Cotton khadi fabrics are not transparent at all. However, they have small pores that can be visible when held in front of light. Some delicate cotton khadi (muslin) and silk khadi can be transparent.

Shrinkage

Cotton khadi can shrink by 2-5%, depending on the quality. 

Durability

Khadi is impressively durable. One can wear it regularly for years with minimum maintenance. Sometimes, the fabric fibers get too soft. It’s comfortable to wear but looks a bit flat. Starch, or rice growl, is used to make it shine like new.

Color retention

Khadi is traditionally dyed with organic henna. It’s the same plant Indian women use to paint their hands at different festivals. These dyes fade off a bit with time. It happens with most organic dyes.

Khadi and Sustainability

Traditional khadi fabric is made with organic products. It has almost zero carbon footprint. However, modern cotton production requires a lot of water. On the other hand, silk and wool is more sustainable than cotton. 

The henna and other organic ingredients used to dye khadi fabric have no environmental effects. This also makes the fabric nontoxic and baby-friendly.

Khadi fabric is durable, and one can wear it for years. The more you use a fabric, the better it is for the environment.

Khadi was less popular a few decades ago. But In the world of global warming and environmental catastrophe, we have no option but to focus on fabrics like Khadi.

Uses of Khadi Fabric

Khadi fabric was regular day-to-day fabric for rural peoples. But its quality and comfort are impressive enough to attract attention from all the classes and boundaries. Khadi fabric is mainly used to make comfortable clothes. Tops, shirts, trousers, and sarees are made with cotton khadi fabric. Silk khadi is used for making bit fancy clothes such as– designer tops, panjabis, beautiful sarees, etc. Wool khadi is famous for its extra warmth. It’s used to make sweaters, shawls, scarves, socks, hand gloves, etc.

The advantages and disadvantages of Khadi Fabric

Let’s overview the advantages and disadvantages of khadi fabric in the following points. 

Advantages

• Khadi fabric is comfortable.
• Khoddor is cool in summer and warm in winter.
• High breathability
• Nontoxic and suitable for allergic individuals.
• Made with organic ingredients.
• Less carbon footprint.
• Easy to maintain and durable.

Disadvantages

• They can be expensive.
• It may feel coarse at first.
• Fades a bit with time.
• The texture may feel uncomfortable at first.
• Shrinks a bit after a few washes.

Khadi vs. Muslin

Khadi / Khoddor has some major similarities in the production process with muslin. Muslin is made of cotton and is known for its delicate, sheer beauty. Khadi, on the other hand, are made for versatility and simplistic beauty. They are stapled in regular fabric. Muslin is a type of khaki fabric.

Depending on the location, the quality and characteristics of muslin can vary. The most delicate and luxurious muslin was produced on the river banks of Dhaka. Dhaka Muslin production requires high skills and experience. 

On the other hand, khoddor was made in most parts of the Indian subcontinent. And the production requires skills but it’s not near the muslin. Muslin was most delicate & Khoddor was thick normal cotton fabric. While Muslin was a symbol of Royal luxury khadi was a fabric for common people.

How to care for khadi clothes?

It’s really easy to take care of khadi fabric. Follow the tips below-

• Hand washing is the best way to wash organic khadi fabric.
• You can also wash it with the gentle cycle of the washing machine.
• Use a natural mild washing powder to wash it. Strong ones may cause early fade.
• Dry it in the shade without direct sunlight.
• Iron khadi with low temperature and steam.
• Store the fabric in a dark and dry place.

Khadi Fabric by the yard

Khadi fabric price ranges depending on the quality, location, and brand. In the local market of India, it’s quite cheap. But brands around the world may sell it at a higher price. Organic handmade ones cost more than automated ones. 

In general khadi fabric’s price ranges to 5$ to 50$ per yard in online and offline markets. It may not always be available in your local market. But you can easily find them online.

Where can you buy khadi?

There are some dedicated brands for organic fabrics. You can get quality khadi fabrics there but they are a bit too expensive. A better alternative is to buy from online marketplaces like Amazon and Etsy. But you will have to search a bit to find the quality products, as there are a lot of options there. Try looking for a trusted seller and a good brand. 

Here are some suggestions if you like to check.

• Build Beautiful Khadi cotton fabric
• Vedha Design
• Trade Star
• Barcelona Store

FAQ

Why did Gandhi wear khadi?

Khadi was a symbol of self-reliance and honor of homeland to Gandhi. It became a symbol of revolution against foreign products that were destroying the culture and economic stability.

Who invented khadi?

Khadi was there for thousands of years as a vital part of south Asian culture. It is often said that Gandhi invented khadi, which is very wrong.

Is there khadi in the USA?

Yes! Khadi became massively popular in the USA and other parts of the world.

Conclusion

Khadi is not just an ordinary fabric. It’s a simple revolution and protecting native culture. It’s a promise towards a more sustainable world. Khadi is amazing with its comfort, versatility, and rich history.

Fabrics are integral parts of our life. And we love to explore and share the story and experience with you. Want to read more fabric stories? Try 83 Amazing types of cotton fabric.