For most of the time in the history of human civilization, leather fabric has been a precious material. It has been around since the time humans started hunting wild animals. The hide of the animal belonged to the hunter as a reward. Pick any time in history when high-quality leather fabric was and will remain one of the most desired fabrics.

Modern leather fabrics and processing techniques are quite different from previous ones. Although all countries produce leather today, not every country has a quality leather industry. Before diving into the world of leather, let’s meet the writers.

Hi, we are Team Muslin Dhaka. We are a passionate group of fashion designers, fabric experts, and marketers. Luxury fabrics are one of our primary areas of work. Throughout the past few years, we researched about the most luxurious fabrics in the world. With our vast experience in the leather fabric industry, we can easily simplify a topic as vast as leather textile!

It’s a bit complicated to cover everything about leather fabric. There are many types, qualities, uses, grades, processes, and production techniques. Discussing environmental impact or related topics is also quite complicated to discuss briefly.

But no worries. We know exactly what most readers want. In this article, we will mainly focus on premium cow leather and briefly describe other types. We will focus more on different types of leather and their uses. Plus, provide an informative buying guide that will actually help. 

Let’s start.

What is Leather Fabric?

Leather fabric is simply the fabric that is made from the skin of domestic animals. Cowhide is the most common type of this fabric. About 60% of the leather used today comes from cows. Buffalo, goats, sheep, and pigs come after the cowhide. There are also exotic animal leathers such as crocodiles, alligators, sting rays, snakes, fish, etc. Exotic leathers are very exotic and considered a luxury product. Those products come with complex trade and production rules.

So, what actually is leather? Leather is made of a protein named collagen. Collagen produces a fiber-like structure, which is one of the most important parts of an animal’s body. Collagen is fibrous and tangled with each other tightly. This results in flexible yet strong skin that protect the animal regulates temperature and keeps the body safe from infection. Leather from different animals comes with different characteristics and features.

Here are the main parts of the leather. 

Grain

In processed leather, the outermost layer of an animal is called the grain. In the outer part, the collagen fibers are so thick and compact that they work as a foundation for holding all parts of the leather. It’s super strong and undoubtedly the best part of the leather.

Corium

Corium is a loose and softer part of leather. In this part, the collagen fibers are longer and loosely attached. Rotate your leather belt, and you can see the corium part.

Grain/Corium Junction

Another part of leather is between the grain and the corium. It has a mixed characteristic between grain and corium.

Several features and quality aspects depend on which parts are used in a leather fabric. 

Leather Processing

Regular leather can be thick and stiff to soft and flexible depending on how it is processed. Leather fabrics are one of the top materials for some items, such as jackets, shoes, bags, coats, etc. Every country that consumes meat produces leather (all). All leathers are equal, but some leathers are more equal than others! Italian Leather products are known as the best in the world.

When it comes to quality, Italy is the best. But China produces the most amount of leather. Brazil, Russia, and India are also the largest producers of leather. Pakistan, Bangladesh, and Middle Eastern countries also produce a lot of leather, but they do not have a good leather industry.

At a glance 

Industrial Name	Leather Fabric
Origin	Untraceable.
Other Names	Animal Skin textiles
Construction	Tanned and processed.
Weight	It can be heavy to light depending on the construction.
Color	Usually dyed with brown, black to other colors.
Airflow	Low.
Moisture Absorbance	Low.
Stretch	No.
Heat Insulation	Low
Shrinkage Ratio	No.
Usage	Used for making coats, jackets, bags, seat covers, book covers, etc.

A Brief History of Leather Fabric

Leather fabric dates back to prehistoric times and is found in many archaeological sites around the world. Ancient humans were quick to find leather from hunted animals. Leather was excellent for weather protection, and they even used it to protect themselves while hunting and making camps. 

From ancient times, leather and its processing have developed a lot. In old times, animal hide was dried and treated with smoke to make it soft and usable. This happened at least 400 thousand years ago. But today, the leather we use is tanned and carefully processed. A more modern leather processing was developed about 5000 years ago in Egypt. They used animal fat and steam to make the leather more durable. The natural tanning techniques were developed about 400 BC. So what is tanning? The word tanning came from “tannin”. Tannin is a component derived from plants. It protects the plants from infection, disease, and herbivores. Did you notice some unripe fruits and vegetables are a bit bitter? It is due to the tannin. However, when animal hide is submerged in tannin for several days, it gains natural protection from fungus and bacterial infections.

Throughout history, leather has been one of the most useful materials for clothing and making different accessories. War equipment and light vests were very common with tough leather products. 

First, chemical tanning developed in the 19th century after the Industrial Revolution. Chromium was used for tanning, which made the process much easier and faster. Even today, chromium tanning is mostly used. A good percentage of premium leather is produced with vegetable tanning.

Leather fabric remains one of the important elements of today’s fashion industry. Authentic leather is most pricey, while other synthetic & semi-synthetic leather products also have their own place in the industry.

How is leather fabric made?

The production process is not so straightforward. There are about a dozen types of leather, with dozens of varieties. There are synthetic and organic ones, vegetable-tanned and chromium-tanned, full grains and top grains, cows and buffalo, and a lot more. 

However, let’s stick to the basic processing of cowhides.

Salting

Salting is the first step of processing leather. Raw leather is salted to remove excess water and preserve it for the next step. After salting, leather can be preserved for months.

Tanning

Once the Leather is dehydrated, it is prepared for tanning. After removing the salt, the hide enters the tannery. There, the hide is submerged and rotated in a solution of lime and water. The tanning process removes the animal residue and purifies the leather. It also loosens the hide’s hair. After the tanning process, the hide enters a machine that removes all the hair and excess materials. 

Chemical tanning with chromium requires a few days. But vegetable tanning can take weeks to months. In the modern standard tanning process, both chemical and vegetable tanning take place. It provides color and texture like vegetable tanning while keeping the process short.

Drying

After the tanning process, it’s time to dry the leather without wrinkles. To do this, the leather attached to a glass surface was applied grease. Once the leather is dried, another layer of grease and oil is used to make it softer, enrich its color. After the leather dried, it went into the next step.

Post Tanning

The next stages determine the type and characteristics of the final product. Inferior and uneven parts are removed. Grain and corium can be separated or treated to make different types.

Types of Leather Fabric

Let’s break down the types, sorted by different categories.

Types depending on Common Animals

Cowhide leather

Leathers from cows are one of the most versatile and common. More than half of the leather produced today is made from cows. 

Calf Hide leather

This is made from young cows. It’s quite softer than adult ones and has a finer grain. It is used to make jackets and clothing.

Goat Hide Leather

Goat hide leather is soft and flexible. The lanolin component makes it naturally water-resistant. Gloves, Shoes, and bags are often made from goat hide.

Sheep Hide Leather

Sheep hide is also soft and lightweight like goat hide. Usually, goat and sheep hides cost less than regular cowhide. Gloves, Jackets, and winter clothes are made with sheep hide leather.

Pig Leather

Pig skin leather is different from regular leather. It has small, traceable pores, a bit rougher texture, and breathable characteristics.

Buffalo Leather

Buffalo leather is similar to cowhide leather but tougher, thicker, and heavier. Heavy-duty equipment is usually made with buffalo leather.

Deer leather

Deer leather is very soft and flexible, with a natural stretch and excellent durability. Jackets and gloves are made from deer skin leather, which is often very rare.

Exotic Animal Leather

Aside from common types of leather, there are some luxury options from other animals. Note that this article does not promote any kind of animal cruelty. Some exotic leathers are strictly prohibited. While some leathers are ethically produced, maintaining all the rules and regulations. We will only discuss the legal ones.

Alligator Leather

Leather from Alligator is one of the most celebrated types of luxury leather. It is often used for bags, shoes, and watch belts. Alligator leather has a very noticeable scale-like pattern. It’s soft yet very durable. Alligators are farmed legally for their skin.

Ostrich Leather

Most people know about alligator skin leather, but ostrich leather is unfamiliar to most. Ostrich leather comes from ostrich legs and has a scale-like, unique pattern. It’s soft, breathable, and very durable. Bags, watches, and money bags are made with ostrich leather.

Python Leather

Python leather is the most popular type of snakeskin leather. It’s recognizable and looks amazing when dyed. When treated well, pithon skins are flexible, soft, and stronger than cow skin. Bags, shoes, watches, and belts are made with python leather.

Fish Skin Leather

Fish skin leathers are one of the most sustainable types of leather. You don’t need skins from giant fish. Tilapia or salmon fish skins are very common. Fish skin has a nice style pattern and looks cool when dyed. It is used in bags, dresses, and shoes as a styling material.

Stingray leather

Stingray leather is tough and firm. It’s loved for its distinct diamond-shaped patterns. Luxury belts, shoes, and bags are made with this leather.

Lizard Leather

Lizard leather is smooth and comes with a scaly pattern. Bags, belts, and watches are made with lizard leather. Leather cream is essential to keep lizard skin leather in good condition.

Crocodile leather 

Crocodile leather is a luxury leather. Top fashion brands like Gucci, Hermes, and LVMH use it for their high-end products. 

There are certain regulations for these leathers. Companies follow the rules & make unique products.

Common leather types

Now, let’s go through the common leather types that we will encounter most often.

Full Grain Leather

Full-grain leather is the best quality leather. It contains all-natural grains, and no layer is removed from the leather. It is thick, durable, and long-lasting. However, it is also heavier and less breathable. Shoes, belts, and other accessories are made with full-grain leather.

Top Grain Leather

Top-grain leather is also a high-quality leather type. It’s sanded, and often the first layer is trimmed to remove the imperfections. Top-grain leather is expensive but will easily serve you for many years.

Genuine leather

The term genuine is somewhat misleading in the leather industry. The products that claim to be genuine are actually not genuine. Genuine leather is made with the fiber part blended with other materials. Technically, it is made of leather, but it can never compete with real leather (we used the term “real leather” to mean full-grain and top-grain leather)

Split Leather

Split leather is made from the second or corium layer of leather. A PU layer is often used to make a fake top part. It is less durable but still works.

Bonded Leather

Bonded leather is the most fake type of leather. After making leather items, some extra parts and dust remain unused. Those parts are processed and glued together to make leather-like objects. Those materials are cheap and do not last long.

Characteristics of Leather Fabric

It is not possible to discuss leather fabrics’ characteristics in detail. However, we can provide an overall perspective. 

Please Check out the following points. 

Appearance

It can be smooth, textured, or mat depending on the type and construction. It has a naturally treated finish. Depending on the leather type, you may see grains, pores, or other characteristics. 

Softness

Usually, softer leather is used in hand gloves, jackets, and other clothing items. Durable ones are for shoes and belts. Softness depends on what type of leather is used and how it is treated.

Breathability

Leather fabrics are naturally less breathable. But there are some breathable types of leather, like pig skin leather. But those are naturally not that common.

Heat absorption

Leather can absorb and retain heat for longer than any other fabric. This makes it suitable for making winter wear. However, the same characteristics make it unfavorable for summer. 

Stretch

There are some leathers with a slight stretch, like deerskin leather. But overall, leather does not come with many stretching traits.

Water absorption

Natural leather absorbs water and is prone to getting damaged by water. If we treat leathers with wax or other water resistant material, that makes leather water resistant. Goat and sheep leather have better water resistance. 

Shrinkage

Leather can shrink by high heat or water. Some types of leather require proper conditioning to keep them in good shape.

Durability

Almost all real leathers are durable when maintained properly. Replica leather products do not perform well in terms of durability.

Color retention

Leather retains color when treated well. Untreated and natural colors easily fade.

Leather and Environmental Sustainability

In one line, leather is not sustainable, but there are ways to reduce its harmful effects. Leather production requires some of the most harmful chemicals for the environment. But by treating the waste well, we can fix the issue. The problems go deeper than they seem. To produce one square meter of leather, 17 kg of carbon is released into the environment as per 8 billion trees. However, humans are consuming meat anyway, so combining the meat and leather feels alright on the sustainability part. 

If the regulations are maintained, leather becomes a lot more sustainable. However, the problem is that most of the leather in the world is produced without maintaining environmental regulations.  Usually, when you buy leather items from renowned brands that ensure sustainability aspects.

 

Uses of Leather Fabric

Leather is an extremely versatile material. A lot of types of items are made of leather. Here are the common uses of leather fabric.

Jackets and Coats

Jackets and coats are some of the most iconic apparel made with leather fabric. It’s stylish and one of the most expensive types of coats you can find on the market. 

Furniture and Upholstery

The sofa, chair, seat cover, and different household and upholstery materials are made with leather fabrics. 

Footwear

Leather commonly used in the footwear industry. Boots, shoes, and sandals are common with leather fabric.

Belts

Different types of casual and formal belts are made with leather. 

Automobil

Car and aircraft interiors are often made with lightweight leather. These are easy to clean and comfortable.

Accessories

Wallets, belts, watch straps, and phone and laptop covers are made of leather.

Sports

Balls, gloves, and many sports accessories are often made with leather. Leather for sports products is a whole different industry.

Musical instruments

Usually, drums and cases for guitars and other instruments are made with leather.

The advantages and disadvantages of Leather fabric

Let’s summarize the advantages and disadvantages of leather fabric in the following section–

Advantages

• Durable
• Comes with a timeless aesthetic 
• ‘Hypoallergenic
• Strong and resilient
• Easy to clean and maintain

 

Disadvantages

• Mostly expensive.
• Prone to damage in wet conditions (if not treated)
• Environmental impact
• Ethical concerns
• Low breathability
• Usually heavy
• Prone to staining, scratching, and color fading.

 

How to Identify Real Leather Fabric?

Identifying real leather is actually easy if you know what to look for. Here are some tips for identifying.

Inspect the leather

Look at the leather product closely. It should feel like a natural product. Not plastic or polyurethane. You can also get some ideas by looking at the grain fibers. However, it’s often hard to identify without an experienced eye.

Smell

Leather products come with an unmistakable smell. If the smell is missing or smells like some other product, it’s probably not leather.

Water test

Leather absorbs water unless it’s treated. So if you sprinkle a few drops of water in leather, it should start absorbing the water within a few seconds.

Burn test

Leather is resistant to fire. If you try to burn one corner of the leather, it should not melt or catch fire. Plastic or polyurethane will easily melt.

Ask question & Certifications

Ask the seller about the item. He will probably claim it is “authentic,” But if you question full grain or top grain, he would not have a good answer for that.

Check the certifications where necessary.

Look at the Price

All leather products should be high. So if you see a $10 leather belt, it’s most likely not real.

How to care for leather fabric?

Leather fabric lasts for many years when cared for properly. Not a lot of maintenance is needed, but there are some important ones. Here are some tips for maintaining your leather fabric.

• Do not soak your leather fabric. Mix mild soap in clean water and mix until a lot of bubbles or foam are produced. Use a soft cotton cloth and put some foam on the cloth. Now wipe it using the fabric. Do not use direct water on it. 
• Avoid keeping the leather in direct sunlight.
• Keep it away from humidity and sharp objects.
• Use a soft brush or clothes for dusting.

Leather Fabric By the Yard

Can you buy leather fabric by the yard? Yes, but not the real ones. You can find genuine, flux, or bonded it by the yard. You can find different types of leather fabric for $20-$100, depending on quality and brand. You may also find real leather, but those are sold by the square foot. Those are more costly and durable.

Where can you buy Leather fashion?

Leather accessories and clothes should be fairly easy to find. Visit your nearby supermarket to get the product you are looking for. 

There are a lot of brands that sell quality products. We recommend not buying from any brand that is not well-established. 

Many great brands sell luxury and affordable leather goods.

• Ringsun
• Jild classic 2
• Bailmain luxury products
• DM leather studio
• Binding your time

Looking for a detailed leather brand review? Check out our Best Leather Brands article.

FAQ

What is the closest material to leather?

PU leather or artificial leather is closest and often works quite similarly to leather. However, those products are not as durable and long-lasting as real leather, and polyurethane replica leather is also not biodegradable. 

How to know if the leather is real?

Fake leather will feel cold and plastic-like. The material will also not stretch. Oftentimes, grains are a good sign for real leather.

What are the cheapest types of leather?

Bonded leather is the cheapest type of leather. It is made with leather residues and other materials to make a bond that looks and works like leather.

Conclusion

Leather is a timelessly versatile and classy material. Having good leather materials not only represents good taste and fashion sense, but they will also serve you for a long time. This article presented insights that will help you understand leather fashion. It will also help you buy the right kinds of leather clothes.  Their maintenance as well. Wanna read about the most expensive fabrics? 

For buying leather fabric & fashion, Check out our shop, Net-a-porter, Nordstrom, Etsy or Amazon.