Phuti Karpas: The Lost Cotton of Dhaka Muslin

Phuti Karpas (Gossypium arboreum var. neglecta) was a rare, red-stemmed cotton plant. It grew only along the river banks near Dhaka, Bangladesh. This uniquely fine, short-staple fiber was the essential component of historical Dhaka muslin, often described as “woven air”. The plant had been considered extinct for over a century. But recently it was rediscovered as part of the effort to revive the legendary Dhaka muslin.

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Dhaka muslin is a tale of the limit of human excellence and artistry. It is a story of four thousand years of refining a cotton fabric to its absolute physical limit. And as the foundation of this extraordinary fabric, the story and uniqueness of Phuti Karpas is beyond its fibers. The story is not just about the quality of the cotton. Its legacy is woven through history and tradition, and stands as an enduring testament to human devotion to beauty.

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Since 2017, we have been staunchly working on the research, revival, and development of Dhaka Muslin. We searched for Phuti Karpas cotton plants. We visited Phuti Karpas cultivation sites, talked with farmers, and now have our garden.

We have successfully recreated historically accurate Dhaka Muslin using the rare Phuti Karpas cotton. Knowledge carries a responsibility to be shared. Today, Team Muslin Dhaka shared our wisdom about Phuti Karpas.

Phuti Karpas is an extinct variety of tree cotton. Scientifically called Gossypium arboreum var. Neglecta. It is native to the Dhaka region of Bangladesh. The cotton’s physical characteristics allow it to produce exceptionally fine yarn.

The fibers have the right strength, fineness, and traits that make it possible to spin yarn thinner than human hair. The plant grows strictly in the high-humidity alluvial soil near the rivers in the Dhaka region.

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Phuti karpas cottons are significantly different from regular industrial cotton breeds. Industrial cottons are optimized, selectively bred, and engineered for high yield & uniformity. On the other hand, Phuti Karpas have extremely low yield and take a long time to grow.

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Phuti Karpas starts flowering after establishing vegetative growth, under suitable growing conditions. After pollination, cotton balls develop and mature. The cotton ball eventually splits open, revealing the fiber inside. To complete the growth cycle, it takes about 4-5 months from sowing to harvest. However, the exact time can vary depending on seasonal conditions, climate, and soil.

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Feature	Phuti Karpas
Scientific name	Gossypium arboreum var. neglecta
Common name	Phuti Karpas
Cotton type	Asiatic tree cotton
Native region	Riverbanks around Dhaka, Bangladesh
Stem color	Distinct reddish stem and branches
Fiber type	Very fine, short-staple cotton
Primary use	Hand-spun yarn for Dhaka Muslin
Best growing conditions	Humid climate, alluvial riverbank soil
Harvest time	Approximately 4–5 months from sowing
Current status	Historically extinct; revived through Bangladesh’s Muslin Revival Project

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The name Phuti Karpas originates from Bangladesh. In Bangla, Karpas means cotton and phuti describes the bursting of the cotton ball. Scottish physicist and botanist George Watt identified the plant scientifically as Gossypium arboreum var. Neglecta. J. D. Hooker collected the plant’s specimens and brought them to the Gardens Herbarium in 1848.

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Interesting fact: There is a place called Kapasia in Gazipur district. The name came from this phuti Karpas cotton, as it grows very well in Kapasia. First cotton plant rediscovered there after almost 200 years!

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Phuti Karpus is a perennial, compact, pyramid-shaped shrub. It grows naturally in many places around Dhaka Division. As a wild tree, it grows to 10 to 15 feet tall. See the first discovered tree.

Now, in traditional cultivation, prune the cotton plant to a height of 18 to 24 inches to create a bushy shape. The most distinctive feature of Phuti Karpus is its reddish stem and branches. Other cotton variants do not have this.

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The leaves of the plant are three-lobed palmate. It resembles a small hand, another important feature of the plant. Under the right conditions, Phuti Karpas flowers twice a year, potentially yielding two harvests.

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After flowering, the plant develops a cotton ball that splits open when mature. Once the cotton splits, harvesting can take place. The fiber of the cotton is uniquely short, making it unsuitable for traditional cotton product production.

The revived Phuti Karpas cultivated in Gazipur have medium, fine, and strong fiber. Laboratory testing measured a staple length of 30.03 mm and a fiber strength of 27.3 g/tex. The properties allow us to make ultra-fine 500 to 750 Nm count yarn.

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A 300 Nm yarn spinned from phuti karpas cotton measures 68 microns, containing only 21 fibers. To twist yarn from a long cotton fiber, it takes 30 to 50 fibers. So no machine can make the muslin yarn. Only a human hand with a specific humidity can make this extraordinary yarn. When muslin fabric is woven, it becomes significantly stronger, even with its delicate nature. The fragile yarn, together with the weaver’s hand & weaving technique, becomes strong enough to withstand 31 kg (302 Newton) force in length & 202 Newton (21 kg) force in width.

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The fibers can last for ages, which is essential for luxury fabric. You can find good-condition muslin fabrics in the museums, but those are actually about 200 years old.

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The earliest evidence of Dhaka Muslin dates back to the 3rd century BCE. In the ancient texts of Kautilya’s Arthashastra, there were mentions of ultra-sheer cotton textiles from Eastern Bengal. A similar type of sheer cotton fabric was also found in Egypt, used to wrap mummies. The evidence is clear that muslin is a fabric more than 4000 years old. There were different qualities of muslins, but the best quality came with the best fineness. Here comes Dhaka muslin.

As the fabric was developed over the centuries, the weavers selectively bred the cotton species, focusing on the best features.

Wrong statement – the rare species only grows on the banks of the Meghna. The British East India Company tried to cultivate cotton in Assam and other areas. But they failed.

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Muslin fabric had one important requirement: it had to be fine and lightweight. Over centuries of cultivation and selection, Phuti Karpas appears to have become highly specialized for producing ultra-fine yarn. However, optimizing for quality comes with its own limitations.

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Phuti Karpus yields extremely low amounts compared to modern industrial cotton species. It also takes a longer growing period and delayed harvest. Unlike other cotton species, it  has strict habitat requirements. It grows best in alluvial soil in high humidity. The species is highly dependent on the local microclimate. Such as seasonal flooding, temperature, and soil type.

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Phuti Karpas grows along the riverbanks of the Meghna and its distributaries, such as the Shitalashya and the Brahmaputra. Kapashia, Sonargaon, Tatibari, Junglebari, and Bajitpur were the places where muslin was produced. British civil servant James Taylor recorded that the finest Phuti Karpas was cultivated within a narrow belt in the southeast of Dhaka.

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Dhaka was historically part of the Bengal region. Phuti Karpas grows only in the Dhaka region. The English tried to harvest it elsewhere but failed. Many other regions had fertile riverbanks, but there is no historical evidence that the plant grew elsewhere in those regions.

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Experts believe Dhaka had the richest weaving culture for thousands of years. And as the plant was developed on the Meghna riverbank, it adapted to the environmental conditions very strictly. However, there is evidence that other parts of Bengal did produce muslin fabric. But Dhaka muslin was superior in quality and fineness.

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Phuti Karpas was prized for its distinct characteristics. The traits allow us to make ultra-fine yarn. Single fibers of Phuti Karpas are thinner than regular cotton and have a silky texture. The fibers are also strong, which allows skilled artisans to work with thin thread without breaking. Despite their fineness, laboratory tests show the fibers are remarkably strong (27.3 g/tex). This allows skilled artisans to work with thin thread without breaking.

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The unique character of Phuti Karpas is just one end of the story. Humidity is not only essential for Phuti Karpas’ growth. But it’s also a vital part of cotton picking, yarn spinning, and weaving.

A dry environment can easily break the fine yarn. It is often said that only descendants of local weavers have the skills and potential to work with yarn this fine. They have to go through years of training before achieving mastery.

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Property	Measured Value
Equivalent fibre diameter	≈11.40 μm (finer than cashmere, vicuña)
Staple length	30.03 mm
Fibre strength	27.3 g/tex
Fibre fineness	1.55 dtex
Yarn diameter	≈68 μm (about the width of a human hair)
Fibres per yarn	≈21
Yarn tenacity	≈13 cN/tex
Warp tensile strength	302 N
Weft tensile strength	202 N
Historical fabric weight	≈13 g/m² (“woven air”)
Machine spinning	Not practical (below the machine-spinning limit)
Primary application	Authentic Dhaka Muslin

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From the measurements,, we can say, in simple terms, that this is a fine, strong & mature cotton. The plant-based fiber is finer than cashmere & vicuna (average value: 11.45).  The low short-fiber index of 7.5 percent, healthy maturity of 0.81. They are exactly the properties that make fine hand-spinning possible.

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Characteristics	Phuti Karpas	Modern Industrial Cotton
Purpose	Finest hand-spun yarn	High-volume textile production
Fiber length	Long	Medium to long
Fiber fineness	Extremely fine	Moderate
Yield	Very low	Very high
Harvest	Slow	Faster
Machine spinning	Not possible	Excellent
Hand spinning	Exceptional	Average
Climate tolerance	Narrow	Wide
Best application	Dhaka Muslin	Everyday textiles

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The extinction of Phuti Karpas occurred due to a series of political, economic, and social factors. The production of Dhaka Muslin was sensitive but strong due to consistent demand and supply.

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The beginning of the end started with the Battle of Plassey. East India Company gained political control over Bengal and the Dhaka Muslin industry. It was also the declining stage of the Mughal Empire, the biggest patron of Luxury muslin in history.

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The Company imposed heavy duties on exporting Indian clothing as high as 70 -80% according to some historical records. On the other hand, British textiles enjoyed almost tariff-free access to the Indian market.

During the Industrial Revolution, Britain was producing clothing on a large scale. To produce cheaper clothing, they required industrial cotton and indigo dye. The company forced the farmers to cultivate indigo and cotton instead of rice. After producing those fabrics in Britain, those clothes were again imported to the Bengal market.

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Bengal had a rich tradition of local textiles including muslin, khadi and other fabrics. Suddenly, the ecosystem collapsed. The demand for local fabric declined, profits were heavily taxed, and the Mughals lost control over Bengal.

Suddenly, making a fabric that requires 6-8 months to make was not viable. Weavers started to shift to safer fabrics that require less time investment. Many historical records agree that this shift did not happen without resistance.

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There was a historical Indigo Revolt in which farmers revolted against the British masters who forced them to cultivate indigo. Also, some claim the British cut the thumb of muslin weavers to stop production! Also passing the skill to the next generation.

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Organized Phuti Karpas cultivation largely ceased by the late eighteenth to early nineteenth century. By the early twentieth century, historians and botanists regarded Phuti Karpas as an extinct cotton variety.

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In 2014, the Bangladesh government launched the Dhaka Muslin Revival project. But everything depends on finding the Phuti Karpas plant. The plant was extinct, but historians believed the plant must exist somewhere in the wild.

Researchers started gathering botanical records, historical evidence, and travelers’ accounts. They also analyzed old maps and museum samples to find any clue about the lost plant. They re-contracted its habitat map using satellite imagery to identify the areas along the Meghna river system near Dhaka.

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Under the leadership of Md, Monzur Hossain, a botanist and agriculturist, they formed a research team. They announced a bounty for the lost Phuti Karpas plant. After collecting numerous samples from different parts of the country, researchers compared them with DNA samples collected from the preserved historical muslin.

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Eventually, a cotton plant was found that contained promising similarities with the preserved sample. A local teacher in Kapasia Mr Abdul Aziz first discovered kapasia. The physical characteristics of the plant, such as plant shape, reddish stem, and fiber properties, matched the historical data.

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Genetic analysis showed approximately 70% similarity with the preserved muslin sample. Later development allowed researchers to develop 96 percent of its original variant. After the identification, the plants were cultivated under a controlled environment, which allowed researchers to study their growth, preserve the variety, and harvest.

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After isolating the original variant, Phuti Karpas were planted in their historical habitats, unlocking the door to reviving the legendary Dhaka Muslin.

Today, though we don’t have the exact plant, we have recovered very close to its original essence. It grows naturally in Kapasia, Gazipur, as a wild cotton plant.

It is cultivated in limited quantities for research and production programs. Dhakai Phuti Karpas cotton also received recognition as Bangladesh’s 39th geographical Indication (GI) product. This recognition will help protect its quality, reputation, and the plant’s original characteristics.

Phuti Karpas is more than a rare cotton; it is a symbol of our rich culture and a scientific achievement of Bangladesh.

We are the pioneers of making historically accurate Dhaka Muslin. We are also working with the government to establish a standard certification system. We are trying to establish an international  Dhakai Muslin authority that safeguards the quality, integrity & authenticity of Dhakai Muslin for generations to come.

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While the internet is flooded with surface-level information about phuti karpas and dhaka muslin. The real in-depth wisdom remains with people who were closely related to making muslin.

For some reason, we see that search engines and AI generate incorrect and confusing results to meet people’s searches on phuti karpas. It is not a brand; it’s a rare cotton variety used to make historical dhakai muslin. Again, it only grows in specific areas of Bangladesh. There is no Phuti Karpas store that sells the plant or raw cotton to the public.

Phuti karpas saree generally refers to the muslin saree woven using Phuti Karpas cotton yarn. Note that jamdani is a weaving technique, and muslin is the base fabric. A jamdani saree is an inferior version of original dhakai muslin that is less fine. Still carries significant cultural value in Bangladesh, India & South Asia. Please read Discover Dhaka Muslin vs Jamdani: Story, history, and key differences.

Today, many commercial brands in Bangladesh sell sarees under the label ‘Muslin’. They are totally different from Dhaka muslin. Please read our article Dhaka Muslin Vs Muslin to understand the difference.

Phuti karpas have been considered extinct for over a century. The Muslin  revival team found a wild relative that matches 70% of the original variants. Now scientists are able to isolate a variant that matches 96%. Although the historical variety is extinct, a very close approximation now grows along the Meghna basin.

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The scientific name of Phuti Karpas is Gossypium arboreum var. Neglecta, a variety of Asiatic tree cotton species. Botanist George Watt identified and preserved the species in herbarium specimens at Royal Botanic Gardens.

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Phuti Karpas cotton is special because of its exceptionally short to medium, fine, strong, and smooth fibers. Those traits enable it to spin ultra-fine yarn, resulting in a translucent, luxurious Dhaka muslin fabric.

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You can not buy raw Phuti Karpas cotton commercially. However, you can own heritage Dhaka muslin from the Muslin Dhaka brand.

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The historical Phuti Karpas has been partially revived. After finding a wild variant that matches 70% with the preserved sample, scientists can develop it to be 96% similar to historical Phuti Karpas.

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No. Phuti Karpas is the cotton plant, and Dhaka Muslin is the fabric woven from Phuti Karpas yarn. It takes 16 rigorous processes and about 4-6 months of artistry to make a Dhaka Muslin masterpiece.

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Phuti karpas is not just a rare cotton breed; it’s the foundation of Dhaka Muslin. A fabric humans took to its physical and aesthetic limit. Phuti karpas is an excellent example of selective breeding on purpose today.

It doesn’t only create beauty; it carries the story of thousands of years of evolution. From ancient Durga sculptures to colonial operations, it stands high with the magnificent revival effort.

Our deepest respect to the researchers, artisans, farmers, and everyone who contributed to bringing back the historical plant to life. Making it possible to weave the heritage Dhaka muslin once again.