Herringbone fabric has always been a remarkable fabric in history. It comes with the strength of twill weaving and the beauty of some designer fabric with patterns. It’s one of the ancient creations that is equally popular these days.

Team Muslin Dhaka (a group of fashion designers, fabric experts, and marketers) collected a few samples of herringbone fabric. We examined those samples like a frog in a lab, so we can share the best information with you. 

We left no stone unturned to find all the information our readers may want to know. With our 40+ years of cumulative experience, we easily satisfy your deepest curiosity about herringbone fabric. 

Sit comfortably with some water. It’s gonna be a rollercoaster of stories and fascinating information.

What is Herringbone Fabric?

Herringbone fabrics are those made with herringbone weaving. It’s not a specific type of fabric. However, the term refers to fabrics that share a common construction, characterized by herringbone weaving.

Herringbone weaving is a type of twill weaving that follows a zigzag or repeated V-shaped pattern. It’s also called broken twill. Twill weave creates 45-degree lines all over the fabric. But herringbone makes 45-degree lines upwards. Then breaks and comes back downwards. This creates a V-shaped pattern. When you repeat this pattern all over the fabric, the design resembles the bone of a herringbone fish. Now you know the origin of the name herringbone. 

Herringbone fabrics can be made of nearly all types of fabric materials. But its signature material is undoubtedly wool. Herringbone weaving creates a bit of heavy and cozy fabric. Wool herringbone is perfect for winter clothes. Cotton, linen, silk, blends, and artificial materials are also used to make different herringbone fabrics. We will discuss this further with the user.

At a Glance

Industrial Name	Herringbone fabric
Origin	Most likely Roman.
Other Names	Broken twill, zigzag twill.
Construction	Creates angular lines upwards and downwards.
Weight	Heavy to medium weight in general. Silk ones are light.
Color	Comes with both simple and vivid colors. Contrasting colors make it more noticeable.
Airflow	Low.
Moisture Absorbance	Medium.
Weaving	Broken twill.
Stretch	Low.
Heat Insulation	High.
Shrinkage Ratio	Low.
Usage	Sweaters, coats, suits, jackets, dresses, bags, shoes, upholstery fabric, and accessories.

A Brief History of Herringbone Fabric

The history of herringbone fabric dates back to the Roman era. Historians predict it was first invented around 5000 BC. Doesn’t it feel fascinating? A fabric that is 8,000 years old, a technique that is still used in your curtain or sofa cover!

The Fabric was found in different parts of the world as an ancient artifact. It indicates that the fabric was equally popular in most parts of the world. Let’s look at the oldest find of this fabric.

In the Italian-Austrian Alps, a 2×2 herringbone was found. After carbon dating, researchers predict it was from 500 to 800 BC. 

In the Murabba’at Cave, Israel, a blue herringbone fabric was discovered, dating back to the ancient Roman period. In Antinoöpolis, Greece, a similar fabric was found, which is from 79 AD. 

In the Middle Ages, the herringbone pattern was not limited to fabrics. Different architectural designs were inspired by the herringbone pattern, such as tiling. 

Herringbone fabrics are an undeniable component of today’s fashions and styles. Its evergreen appeal and amazing features made it an essential fabric of modern times.

How is Herringbone Fabric made?

Historically, herringbone fabric was made with a handloom. But with the invention of automated machines, it became dramatically easier and faster. 

Let’s dig a bit deeper into the weaving pattern. I promise to make it as simple as possible. The weaving starts like a regular twill. Let’s say the warp goes like 2 over, 2 under, and 1 over. The next warp follows a similar pattern but one weft further. This creates an upward angular line.

After repeating this pattern for some time, now it’s time to do the opposite: 1 over, 2 under, and 2 over. The process creates a downward angular line. This pattern will continue until a perfect v shape is made. This is followed all over the fabric.

If you are a weaver hobbyist, this information will come in handy. To get a better practical idea about herringbone fabric, watch a video tutorial or maybe join a weaving class. Check out the video below. It might be helpful.

Types of Herringbone Fabric

The types of herringbone fabric can be divided into 2 categories. It can be divided into materials and construction. Let’s not bore you with construction details, as there can be dozens (derived from basic twill weave), and perhaps not that relevant here. 

Let’s explore the various types of herringbone fabric, categorized by their materials.

• Wool 

As we mentioned before, wool is the most significant material for herringbone fabric. Did you notice that many of the sweaters come with a bit of a zigzag pattern? Those are made with herringbone fabric. I can recall that I saw those more in my childhood, but I see them a bit less nowadays. 

• Cotton

Cotton herringbone fabrics are also pretty popular. They are a bit breathable and lighter than wool herringbone fabric. Still, they are heavier than regular cotton ones. That may be because it takes more material to make herringbone fabric than other fabrics.

• Silk

Silk is one of the types of herringbone fabric that you can comfortably wear in the summer. Silk herringbone ones are usually very smooth and delicate. Those are probably the most luxurious options of herringbone for their unmatched beauty and comfort.

• Linen

Linen fabrics are also used in many countries. They are breathable and cool. Comes with great strength and versatility.

• Artificial

Artificial fibers, such as polyester and nylon, are often used to create herringbone fabric. Those fabrics are extremely powerful and resist water to some extent. Those characteristics make it a fantastic material for heavy-duty bags.

• Mixed

Different blends of yarn can be used to make mixed herringbone fabric. That fabric consists of a mixture of different characteristics. Wool blend is the most common.

Characteristics of Herringbone Fabric

Now, let’s go through the basic characteristics of the fabric. So you can understand it better. We have done some physical tests to understand the fabric better. 

Appearance

The fabric has a V-shaped pattern all over it, similar to a pattern of a feather. The appearance depends more on the color of the yarn used in the fabric. If all the colors do not contrast, it will provide a soothing look. On the other hand, contrasting colors will be more noticeable and vivid. Both types have their unique beauty. When it comes to appearance, there is no better scale than personal preference. 

Softness

The softness of herringbone fabric depends on its material. Wool and silk are considerably soft and comfortable. Cotton and linen are not the softest, but certainly not uncomfortable. We had cotton and wool herringbone in our hands. After holding them together, I felt a noticeable difference.

Yarn quality

I carefully took a yarn from our sample and showed it to our fabric expert. She approved the yarn as an A grade. 

Breathability

Naturally, herringbone fabric is less breathable compared to other basket or plain weave fabrics. Still, it passes enough air to make it comfortable. I held both of our samples in front of a table fan. The wool did not allow much air to pass through. However, the cotton one performed slightly better than the wool one.

Heat absorption

Herringbone comes with moderate heat absorption. We held a lighter near the cotton herringbone fabric, and after a few seconds, I felt warmth. The absorption of heat also depends on the color of the fabric. The darker colors usually absorb more heat. 

Stretch

Herringbone fabrics are not a good stretch fabrics. Similar to twill fabric, herringbone has one of the least stretching abilities. Wool herringbone fabric comes with decent stretch, as wool has a bit of natural stretch.

Water absorption

These fabrics are not good absorbers of water. Due to its compact construction, it does not absorb water well. However, cotton herringbone fabric has better water absorbability. Wool and linen have less and synthetic ones have the least.

Transparency

These fabrics are not transparent at all. It passes zero light, plus it is a drapery fabric. That’s why it is used to make heavy curtains.

Shrinkage

Due to its compact construction, herringbone fabrics are less prone to shrinkage. However, naturally, cotton herringbone fabric has a 2-5% shrinkage rate after a few washes.

Durability

Herringbone textiles are one of the most durable fabrics of all. We wanted to taste it. We stroked the fabric with a knife, and there was no sign of a scratch.

Herringbone Fabric and Environmental Sustainability

Herringbone fabric’s environmental sustainability depends on its material. Excluding the synthetic herringbones, they are totally biodegradable. It does not cause soil pollution. Plus, they are easily recyclable. However, the production is not always environmentally friendly. 

Wool and silk herringbone fabrics are more sustainable. They follow a natural production process and have little effect on the environment. Cotton fabrics are less sustainable due to the high water consumption required for production.

Overall, the sustainability of a fabric depends a lot on your hands. The longer you use a fabric, the less fabric you buy, the better it is for the environment.

Uses of Herringbone Fabric

Herringbone fabric is known for its versatility. From dresses to curtains, furniture covers to military suits, it holds a considerable portion of today’s fabric market. The style can be many thousands of years old, but it still blends perfectly with 21st-century fashion. It is also used for various furnishing purposes. The herringbone pattern adds a sense of taste to household decoration.

The cloth is used to make heavy coats, suits, pants, outdoor fabric, different types of sweaters, scarves, and more. Curtains, bed sheets, and sofa covers are also made with herringbone fabric. This fabric’s exceptional strength makes it suitable for military dresses, bags, shoes, and other accessories.

The Advantages and Disadvantages of Herringbone cloth 

In case you missed any points of the discussion above, let’s recap the main points in this section.

Advantages

• Timeless design allows the creation of vibrant patterns with different colors.
• Strong and durable.
• Usable for a long time.
• Available in various designs.
• Easy to care for and maintain.
• High versatility.

Disadvantages

• Mostly heavy.
• It may not be suitable for summer.
• The production cost is higher than other fabrics.

Herringbone vs. Twill fabric

The main difference between herringbone and twill fabric is in its design. Herringbone follows a similar weaving to twill but alters the direction at regular intervals. That does not cause any differences in characteristics.

The alteration of direction gives the herringbone a feather-like design. In contrast, twill fabric has a plain appearance. Often, herringbone comes with different colors that highlight the patterns. At the same time, twills are usually made with a single color. 

Although they have similarities, herringbone and twill weaving are both used to make different types of fabric. Twill weaving is mainly used to make jeans, while wool sweaters are the most common herringbone fabric.

Care Tips for Herringbone Fabric?

The care and maintenance of herringbone fabric depend on the material. Here are some essential tips:

• Check the care level for more accurate information.
• Wool herringbone fabric can be hand-washed and machine-washed. Be sure to use a wool-friendly organic detergent.
• Silk fabric requires a dry wash.
• Cotton herringbone can be treated like other cotton fabrics.
• Do not dry it in direct sunlight.
• Store in a cold, dark place with ventilation.

Herringbone Fabric by the yard

The price of herringbone fabric can vary depending on quality and materials. Usually, the price of one yard of herringbone ranges 5$ to 50$. Cotton and linen herringbone fabrics are generally cheaper. Wool ones will cost you more. In comparison, silk herringbone fabric is the most expensive option.

Where can you buy Herringbone textiles?

Herringbone clothes are fairly common in both online and offline marketplaces. Visit your nearest fabric market for offline buying. There are countless brands in marketplaces that sell good quality herringbone. However, more options often create more confusion. 

Here are some of the trusted sellers from Amazon and Etsy.

• Lunarable
• Curtainburg
• NoblefabricGB

For extreme luxury options, you can browse our shop section!

FAQ

Why is herringbone so expensive?

Herringbone fabrics are more compact than regular fabrics, which require more materials and time to produce.

Is herringbone out of fashion?

Herringbone fabrics have been thriving for 8 thousand years. It’s not like a fashion trend that comes and goes. You can embrace this timeless style without a doubt.

What is the difference between herringbone and houndstooth fabric?

Herringbone fabric has a pattern similar to the bones of herring fish. Similarly, the houndstooth fabric pattern resembles the houndstooth. They also have other differences in characteristics.

Conclusion

Herringbone fabric is undeniably one of the major fabrics in history. It may be old, but it’s here to stay with its aesthetic pattern and convenient features. In this era of fast fashion, durable fabric like herringbone is precious for sustainability. Get your herringbone today and use it for years to come.