Houndstooth is a pattern that is over thousands of years old. The houndstooth pattern on the fabric looks classic and evergreen. Houndstooth fabrics are embedded with different cultures around the world. Even today, it remains one of the most beloved patterns of checks.

Meet the writers! We are Team Muslin Dhake. We are a group of fabric researchers,  designers, and marketers. With our extensive experience in the natural and luxury fabric industry, we will provide detailed, firsthand insights into different fabrics.

Continue reading the article as we explore the history, features, manufacturing process, uses, and key facts about the fabric.

Let’s start.

What is Houndstooth Fabric?

Houndstooth fabric is a type of fabric made using a weaving technique that creates a distinctive check pattern. The check patterns have sharp edges that look similar to the fangs of a hound dog. It’s also called a dog’s tooth, puppy tooth, etc.

Houndstooth fabrics are traditionally made with wool yarns. But cotton houndstooth also became popular. The fabric can be made with any textile material. We will indicate wool and cotton for simplicity. 

One light color and one dark color are used to create the check contrast. More than two colors are also pretty common. But most of the time, neutral or at least muted colors are used.

Houndstooth fabrics are versatile and suitable for a wide range of applications, including suits, shirts, pants, dresses, and more. But houndstooth is more of a casual pattern. It’s often avoided in formal settings. We will talk about those in the later section.

At A Glance

Industrial Name	Houndstooth Fabric
Origin	Scotland. Used as garments of shepherds.
Other Names	Pied-de-Poule, dog tooth, puppy tooth.
Construction	Made with 4 dark-colored weft yarn and 4 light-colored warp yarn. A 2×2 twill weave is used.
Weight	Moderately heavy. Depends on the build.
Color	Contrast between dark and light check.
Airflow	Low.
Moisture Absorbance	Depends on the material. Usually low.
Weaving	Twill weave.
Stretch	No.
Heat Insulation	Woolen houndstooths have a good insulating character.
Shrinkage Ratio	Cotton houndstooth can shrink after washing.
Usage	For dresses, accessories, and upholstery.

A Brief History of Houndstooth Fabric

Between 1500 and 1200 BC in Celtic Salt Mine, Austria, the first artifact of houndstooth fabric was found. Archaeologists were able to collect additional traces of the fabrics in Sweden. Those were about 2100-24000 years old. As you can see, the technique is quite ancient. However, it was not equally popular at all times. Very little information about houndstooth fabric from the past is available.

The next historical trace was found in the 1800s. Experts believe shepherd boys used the fabric outdoors. In that century, the popularity of houndstooth fabrics grew steadily. Over the years, the fabric evolved further, and more people began to use it. 

The production of the fabric was not very easy at that time. So, with the rising demand, only the high class could use it. In the 1930s, the houndstooth fabric became a symbol of high society. After the Prince of Wales and Edward VII started using it, the fabric gained more significance among the royal people.

More and more designers and fashion companies became interested in houndstooth fabric. That is how the fabric developed in different types, sizes, and qualities. In modern times, houndstooth fabric is an essential part of the fashion industry.

How is Houndstooth Fabric made?

Houndstooth fabric is actually a broken twill fabric that creates a tessellation pattern. Tessellation is a pattern where a geometric shape or design repeats throughout the fabric. This shape can be made with any 2 different colors. However, only one light and one dark color are used for better contrast.

The weaver uses a warp layout to make altering bonds of 2×2 twill. Typically, four light yarns and four dark yarns are used. The weavers do not need to create every pattern intentionally. They follow a repeating technique that creates a beautiful pattern all over the fabrics. 

By changing the number of yarns or the twill pattern, weavers can easily adjust the pattern size to be small or large. 

Types of Houndstooth Fabric

There are very few actual types of houndstooth fabric. There can be many variations, but only a few are commonly used. Let’s check them below.

Wool houndstooth: Wool houndstooth fabrics are the most common type. Shepard boys used to wear wool houndstooth to get protection from the weather. Wool houndstooths are heavy, insulative, and inflexible.

Cotton houndstooth: Cotton houndstooth was a later adaptation of the houndstooth technique on cotton fabric. Shirts, skirts, tops, and different types of dresses and accessories are made with cotton houndstooth fabric.

Puppytooth fabric: Tiny houndstooth patterns are called puppytooth fabric. It’s a really cute naming process! However, puppytooth patterns in the fabric create a unique visual texture that is quite different from regular houndstooth. It has a more formal look. Puppytooth is used to make overcoats and pants.

Characteristics of Houndstooth Fabric

The traits depend on the materials, weaving techniques, and pattern size. But most of them share some standard features. 

Let’s check them out below.

Appearance

Houndstooth fabric features a combination of light and dark colors. Obviously, there can be more than two colors. The colors create a deep contrast that produces various visual effects depending on the size of the check and colors. 

Houndstooth checks with a large pattern are quite attention-grabbing. On the other hand, smaller ones create rich and smooth effects. That’s why large houndstooths should be avoided in more formal gatherings. 

Softness

The softness of houndstooth fabric depends on the materials. However, basically, it’s not made to be too soft. As it is made with a twill weave, it has a sturdy build. Therefore, houndstooth fabric is often used for overcoats, shoes, bags, and upholstery. However, the houndstooth with thin cotton yarn is softer. Suitable for dresses, shirts, and tops.

Yarn quality

This fabric is made with wool or cotton yarn. The quality of yarn determines the quality and longevity of the fabric. Usually, regular qualities are used for decent-quality houndstooth. More expensive ones contain long fiber premium yarn.

Breathability

Houndstooth textiles are moderately breathable, maybe on the lower part. Due to its compact twill weave, it does not pass a lot of air. It’s similar to denim fabric. Thinner houndstooth fabric can have better breathability.

Heat absorption

This fabric has moderate heat absorption. Of course, heat absorption depends on several factors, including fabric density, materials, and color. Usually, darker colors absorb more heat.

Stretch

Houndstooths are not stretchy at all. The fabric is compactly woven and lacks natural stretch. However, if elastic or other stretchy materials can be used for stretching, that is rare.

Water absorption

The water absorption of this fabric depends on the material used in its construction. Naturally, wool fabric absorbs water more slowly than cotton fabric. Due to its compact build, it absorbs water quite slowly compared to other fabrics.

Transparency

Houndstooth clothes are not made to be transparent. It almost blocks light like a solid object.

Shrinkage

Cotton houndstooth can shrink 2-7 percent after the first few washes. But wool ones do not shrink. Keep this in mind while buying cotton fabric.

Durability

Houndstooth textiles can easily enter among the most durable fabric lists. Its compact twill makes it resistant to various damage. One can use houndstooth clothes with proper maintenance.

Color retention

Houndstooth fabrics do a pretty decent job of retaining color. Again, not every houndstooth is made similarly. Low-quality cotton houndstooth may fade easily. 

Houndstooth Textile and Sustainability

The sustainability aspect depends more on the materials of the fabric. Usually, wool is more sustainable than cotton fabric when produced organically. Wool and cotton are both biodegradable and not directly harmful to the environment. However, the production process leaves a carbon footprint, which is detrimental to global warming. 

However, a significant portion of sustainability is in our hands. The more we use a fabric, the more sustainable it gets. Saying no to fast fashion can significantly help the environment. Buy fewer clothes, choose high-quality fabric, and use them for years. 

Uses of Houndstooth Clothes

Houndstooth fabrics are quite versatile. It started as a staple fabric for clothing, but it quickly gained popularity as upholstery and accessories. The fabric is used to make coats, suits, ties, pants, Shirts, skirts, tops, jackets, etc. As we mentioned earlier, a houndstooth is a kind of informal pattern for dress. The pattern is a bit too attention-grabbing. In a formal setting, decent and more neutral clothing is better.

Houndstooth fabric is also used for upholstery. Chair cover, table cloth, sofa, bedding, and curtains are common with houndstooth fabric. Accessories like shoes, bags, and wallets are also getting popular.

The advantages and disadvantages of Houndstooth fabric

Let’s recap the features in the pros and cons section.

Advantages

• Comes with a noticeable and timeless pattern.
• Have a vintage vibe.
• Durable and long-lasting.
• Requires little care.
• Available in different colors and sizes.
• Suits with different styles and tastes.

Disadvantages

• Not suitable for formal occasions.
• Bit heavy and less breathable.

Houndstooth vs puppytooth fabric

Houndstooth fabrics come with notably large patterns. While puppy tooths are tiny, and they create totally different visual textures. If you want your houndstooth fabric to be less notable, go for puppytooth fabric. Puppytooth fabrics are more suitable for coats and suits.

How to care for Houndstooth fabric?

Caring houndstooth fabrics include no special or surprising steps. Check the manufacturer’s guide for more specific maintenance. Here are some of the tips from our experts.

• Dry wash or hand wash wool houndstooth. You can wash cotton ones in the washing machine.
• Use a mild washing powder. Use cold water.
• The wool houndstooth needs to be laid flat for drying. Cotton ones can be dried in the air or dryer.
• Do not dry in open sunlight.
• Avoid excess rubbing.

Houndstooth Fabric by the yard

There are different qualities of a houndstooth, and the price can vary a lot. Affordable houndstooths are made from cotton and blends of other synthetic fibers. Those cost 5$-15$ per yard. Within 16$-14$, you can find wool and synthetic blends or pure cotton houndstooth fabrics. Usually, those are standard options. Within the 40$ to 100$ range, you can find high-quality wool to cashmere wool houndstooth fabrics. Cashmere houndstooths are one of the best quality of the fabric.

Where can you buy Houndstooth Fabric?

Finding houndstooth fabric should not be hard. Its available both online and offline. Visit your local fabric market to get houndstooth fabric. Online marketplaces can also be viable. But finding good ones may seem challenging. Here are some suggestions you can consider.

• Premier Prints
• Majestic Giftware
• Discounted designer Fabrics
• SusanwillowGB
• Luxurysofabric

FAQ

Here are some frequently asked questions about houndstooth fabric.

What is the difference between herringbone fabric and houndstooth fabric?

Herringbone fabric and houndstooth fabric are both versions of twill weaving. Herringbone has a pattern like fish bone, while houndstooth fabric comes with repeating patterns like dog fangs.

Can you wear houndstooth fabric in summer?

Yes, you can wear houndstooth clothes in any season. But it’s better for autumn and winter.

What colors go best with houndstooth?

The colors with similar shades of houndstooth are usually suited effortlessly. Neutral colors also work. Feel free to experiment yourself.

Conclusion

Houndstooth fabrics have always been relevant in the fashion world. We tried to present a firsthand and detailed insight into houndstooth. I hope the article helped you gain a better understanding of the fabric.

Want to buy Houndstooth textiles? Check out our shop section for luxury, Amazon, or Etsy!