Jacquard fabrics was one of the most luxurious fabric. Throughout history, fabrics with intricate patterns and designs have been considered the most luxurious ones. Those patterns required careful human artistry. The work was repetitive and painstaking. Over time, the demand for those fabrics increased, but it was not possible to produce them in large quantities. 

Since the invention of the Jacquard loom, things have never been the same. The story of the Jacquard fabric is fascinating. Team Muslin Dhaka did some intensive research and experiments with the fabrics. With our 40 years of cumulative experience, we are confident that it will satisfy your curiosity.

This article explains what jacquard fabric is and provides a brief overview of the fabric. We will delve into the rich history of the fabric. In the later part, we will present a detailed analysis of its character, uses, benefits, drawbacks, care guide, and more.

We have a lot to cover. Let’s hit the road.

What is Jacquard fabric?

Jacquard fabric is a type of thick fabric with complex and repetitive patterns. In this fabric, the patterns are created directly during the weaving process. In other artistic fabrics, designs are sewn or stamped onto the fabric. But the jacquard fabric integrated design makes it unique and more appealing.

The Jacquard Loom is used to make this fabric. Previously, the method of making designer fabric was very slow and laborious. The invention of the Jacquard loom was a groundbreaking advancement in the fabric industry. Joseph Marie Jacquard invented it in 1804. Now, computerized technology makes the process 100 times easier.

There are different types and grades of jacquard fabrics. They are known by different names. Most jacquard have thread counts between 100 and 300. 

Fun Fact: The function of jacquard fabric inspired Charles Babbaze to invent the Computer (More on it in the history part)

Industrial Name	Jacquard fabric
Origin	France
Other Names	Brocade, damask, or matelassé.
Construction	Pattern and design are integrated with the weaving.
Weight	100-300 thread count.
Color	Can vary.
Airflow	Medium. Depends on the fabric.
Moisture Absorbance	Medium.
Stretch	Low.
Heat Insulation	Medium.
Shrinkage Ratio	Depends on the material.
Usage	Suits, dresses, jackets, upholstery, pillow covers, curtains, tablecloths, and more.

A Brief History of Jacquard Fabric

The name “jacquard fabric” refers to a type of fabric made on a jacquard loom. Brocades, brocatelle, damask fabric, and tapestries are some of the names of jacquard fabrics. 

Those fabrics may have different characteristics and materials, but they have one thing in common. They all have designs and patterns in them. 

Historically, fabrics with complex designs and patterns were the most precious types of fabric. Brocade is one of the earliest designer fabrics. In the 4th century, brocade was invented.

Throughout that time, the fabric was both luxurious and hard to produce. A full day of hard labor was needed to produce only 2 inches of brocade fabric. Additionally, the loom used to create brocade was quite heavy. The weavers had to lift the weaving reeds while weaving, which was half of their body weight. 

The entire process was inhumane. Brocade weavers often experienced severe physical complications due to the heavy lifting they performed all day. At the same time, the demand for brocade fabric was increasing dramatically. 

The invention of the Jacquard Loom

In the 18th century, a boy named Joseph Marie-Jacquard found the solution that humanity had been looking for centuries. He himself was a brocade weaver. At that time, the production of other fabrics was simplified with the use of machines. However, brocade was still slow and required hard labor. He thought there must be a way to simplify this. He discovered that punch cards can effectively control the weaving process and make the work 100 times easier. It was like piano reeds; the changing direction of punch cards could easily control the rise of the warp threads. That was a significant revolution in the textile industry at the time. And we are still enjoying its benefits.

Later on, in 1804, a finalized loom was invented using Jacquard’s principle. The loom was named the Jacquard loom. With time, the machine became automated, and production became a lot easier.

 

How is Jacquard fabric made?

The production of jacquard is not a fraction as complicated as it used to be. With the help of modern technology, it has become faster and easier. Here is the production process of jacquard cloth.

• Material collection

Cotton, silk, or wool is collected from convenient sources. Then, the materials are processed for yarn making. 

• Yarn spinning

In the next stage, yarn is spun with automated machines. The thickness and type of yarn is also determined in this step. After the yarn is produced, manufacturers often dye it.

• Programming the design

In the next step, the design and patterns are programmed in the computer software. Every aspect of the fabric and design can be set with the software. With computers and automation, it’s possible to create very complicated designs unimaginably fast. However, compared to other automated fabrics, it’s quite slow for valid reasons.

• Setting the machine

When the computation work is done, it is time to set up the loom and feed the machine with yarn. Once everything is set, the production is started.

• Post-production

Once the fabric is produced, post-production takes place. It may include further treatment to make it more durable, dyeing, etc. At last, it was cut, packed, and shipped.

Where is Jacquard produced?

China is the largest producer of jacquard fabric. They are the top producer of cotton and silk jacquard. However, most of the raw materials for jacquard textile are produced in India. Australia is the largest producer of wool jacquard. If you read enough about fabric history, you will notice that most of the fabric was born and produced in China. They have been the best in this sector for millennia. 

Types of Jacquard Fabric

The Jacquard loom is outstandingly versatile. By varying the type of yarn, build, design, or thickness, there can be infinite types of jacquard. Before the Jacquard loom was invented, the designer fabric was woven by hand. Later, they shifted to a jacquard loom as it was convenient and faster. 

Here are the main types of jacquard fabric.

• Damask

Damask fabric is known for its detailed and contrasting patterns. The fabric has a close weave and many thread layers. Mostly made of cotton and used for apparel, home furnishing, and accessories. Compared to other Jacquards, Damask fabric is easier and faster to produce on the Jacquard loom.

• Brocade

Brocade is one of the most popular jacquard fabrics. It has been woven by hand for thousands of years. The artistic weaving method of brocade fabric was painstakingly slow and hard. The Jacquard loom was invented to simplify the weaving process of brocade fabric.

• Brocatelle

It was invented with the rise of the Jacquard loom. Similar to brocade, it can not be replicated by hand and can only be made with a jacquard loom. It is thick, has raised patterns, and comes with complicated designs.

• Matelassé

It is another type of designer fabric that has a raised pattern. The weaving was previously done by hand. Matelassé is a quilting-like fabric without any stitching. Dresses, pillow covers, and decorative upholstery items were made with Matelassé fabric. 

• Silk Jacquard

Silk Jacquard is the most expensive and luxurious type of jacquard fabric. Combining the smoothness of silk and designs made with a jacquard loom, it creates an unmatched aesthetic.

• Cotton Jacquard

Cotton jacquard is the most common type of jacquard fabric. From upholstery to women’s dresses, cotton jacquards are everywhere. It is also the cheapest.

• Wool Jacquard

Wool jacquard is primarily used to make winter clothes. The quality of wool jacquard depends more on the type of wool and build.

Normally, jacquard are luxury fabrics by tradition. With automation and invention, there are also cheaper options in today’s market. 

Characteristics of Jacquard fabric

Depending on the material, the characteristics of jacquard fabric can vary. Generally, cotton and silk are the most used materials for jacquard. Silk is more expensive than cotton.

Let’s go through the characteristics of jacquard fabric.

Appearance

Jacquard fabrics come with vivid colors and designs. Some are simplistic and contain light colors. While some come with contrasting designs and colors. The patterns of these fabrics can be really simple shapes to complex art. Usually, complex artistic ones are more expensive.

Silk jacquard are shiny and have some metallic character. Cotton ones do not shine like silk fabrics. 

Softness

The softness of jacquard depends on the material and build. We had a cotton jacquard sample in our hands, and it seemed medium soft. Cotton jacquards are naturally softer than regular cotton ones. Natural fabrics are skin-friendly and comfortable for the skin.

Yarn quality

We carefully took out a fabric from our sample. It looked like regular cotton yarn to me. I took the cotton to Sam ( our inhouse fabric expert). He approved that the yarn is made of good-quality cotton. 

Breathability

Regular Jacquard fabrics are moderately breathable. Thin ones pass more air, while thicker ones are less breathable.

I held our jacquard textile sample in front of a table fan and kept my face close to it. I experienced some air passing the fabric, but it was not significant. Cotton Jacquard cloth should work like regular cotton fabric.

Heat absorption

The heat absorption of a fabric depends on various factors. The color of a fabric has an effect on its heat absorption. Darker colors absorb more heat, while lighter colors absorb less heat in general. The jacquard cloth absorbs moderately low heat, like other cotton fabrics. 

Some jacquard fabrics are specially made for better breathability and less heat absorption. Jersey clothes nowadays are made as a synthetic jacquard.

Stretch

The stretch of this fabric also varies depending on its material and construction. Regular cotton jacquard has minimal stretch, while polyester jacquard fabric has more stretch. Silk jacquard only stretches slightly, while wool ones have a slightly greater stretch. However, stretching depends a lot on the weaving technique. (There are numerous types of jacquard weaving)

Water absorption

Cotton jacquard fabric has good water absorption ability. We sprinkle a few drops of water on our sample fabric. We noticed it absorbed the water almost immediately. That means the fabric will absorb the sweat and keep you comfortable.

However, there are synthetic jacquards that are water resistant. Silk and wool jacquard has less absorbability.

Transparency

These fabrics are usually not transparent. However, some silk jacquards are specially made to be transparent. I held our cotton jacquard sample in front of a light, and no light was passing through. Some dots of light were visible. 

Shrinkage

Cotton jacquard can shrink slightly after the first wash, which is normal. Quality cotton fabric should not shrink more than 2-5%. Other types of jacquard fabric do not shrink. 

Durability

Jacquard fabric is perfectly woven with a computerized jacquard loom. The weaving is compact so it does not lose its shape easily. The fabric is durable enough for everyday use. It can last for decades when stored in a dry and cool place.

Color retention

Quality jacquard fabric usually retains color well. Cotton ones may release a bit of color in the first few washes.

Jacquard fabric and Sustainability

Some jacquard fabrics are environmentally friendly, while others can be less sustainable. Cotton Jacquards are not really sustainable as they require a lot of water. Still, organic cotton can cultivate in a better sustainable way.

Wool and silk are both really eco friendly jacquard textile options. Silk is undoubtedly the most sustainable material for the environment.

There is another aspect worth discussing. The longer a fabric lasts, the better it is for the environment. Jacquard are naturally very durable and can last for years. From that point of view, jacquard is sustainable. However, in this fast fashion era, not a lot of people wear a dress for many years.

Uses of Jacquard 

As we already know, the term “jacquard fabric” refers to a type of fabric made using a jacquard loom and the jacquard weaving technique. Naturally, the uses of these fabrics will be vast. Let’s make a categorical list to simplify things.

1. Dresses

These fabrics are often used for skirts, tops, blouses, pajamas, and exotic suits. Luxury jacquard dresses are used for weddings or special occasions.

1. Housewares

Different types of housewares are made with jacquard fabric. They enhance the aesthetics of the household and are also very durable. Tablecloths, bedding, pillow covers, and curtains are some examples.

1. Decoration and accessories 

This fabric is often used for accessories and decoration purposes. Such as handbags, wall hangings, shoes, and more. 

The advantages and disadvantages of Jacquard 

let’s go through the advantages and disadvantages of jacquard fabric, summarizing the points.

Advantages

• Any design within and beyond imagination is possible.
• Aesthetically pleasing.
• Durable and long-lasting.
• Looks exotic, but it is not hard to produce like other luxe fabrics.
• Easy to maintain and care for compared to other fancy-looking fabrics.

Disadvantages

• Disadvantages depend on the materials and designs. Fabric with heavy designs may not be suitable for day-to-day clothing.
• The production process is slower than regular affordable fabric.
• An infinite number of options makes it hard to choose a decent one. (paradoxically)

Jacquard vs Brocade

Jacquard and brocade are often called the same fabric. This is true, but there is more you should be aware of. Fabric that is made with a jacquard loom can be termed as jacquard fabric. Brocade is one of the most common fabrics that is made with jacquard weaving. The jacquard loom is the tool, and jacquard weaving is the technique. Similarly, damask and Matelassé are different fabrics but fall under the category of jacquard. 

How to care for Jacquard?

As there are different types of jacquard fabric, it’s a bit hard to explain all in a few words. Anyway, let’s do it separately.

Cotton Jacquard 

• Use a jacquard brush or vacuum cleaner to clean jacquard fabric items.
• Use wet clothes to remove dust or dirt.
• Machine washing and hand washing are both okay. 
• Dry in air or low heat.
• Use low heat to iron.

Silk jacquard

• Dry wash is best for silk jacquard fabric.
• Spot clean with a mild cleaning agent and avoid water as much as possible.
• Avoid direct sunlight.
• Steam iron with the lowest heat.
• Store in a cool dry and breathable place.

Wool jacquard fabric

• Dry wash to avoid damage.
• Hand wash with organic products
• Avoid drying in direct sunlight
• Store in a dark, cool, and dry place. 

Jacquard Fabric by the yard

A good quality jacquard fabric by the yard prices range from 7$ to 50$. However, luxury jacquard with artistic value does not have a price threshold. Silk jacquard fabrics are more expensive and a bit rare too. Cotton ones are more available and cheaper.

Where can you buy Jacquard Fabric?

Jacquard fabric is widely available in online and offline stores. There are dedicated brands that only sell jacquard. Amazon and Etsy are also good places to get quality jacquard textile. However, on Amazon and Etsy, you will have to find quality products among a lot of average ones. If you ask for a suggestion, here is a list of good jacquard brands.

• HalfHiddenCo
• Chembroidcraft
• Fabric Empire

FAQ

How can you tell if a fabric is jacquard?

The designs and patterns are integrated with the weaving in jacquard fabric. If you take a close look at the back, you will see long floats.

Is Jacquard breathable?

The breathability of jacquard fabric depends on the textile material and weaving. But in general, most jacquard fabric has moderate breathability. 

Why is it called Jacquard?

Jacquard fabric is named after the Jacquard loom, which in turn is named after its inventor, Joseph Marie Jacquard.

Conclusion

Jacquard fabrics are symbols of beauty and elegance. It also carries a rich history of luxury.  Even today, this exceptional fabric continues to play a significant role in the fashion and clothing industries. Explore our other fascinating fabric stories, written with passion and love.

Here is a similar article you should read: All About Brocade Fabric.