Japanese denim is a form of art. It is the best denim you can get. Japanese jeans are admired worldwide by denim lovers for their extreme craftsmanship.
Japanese jeans is already a heritage— a style of rebellion. From the sign of counterculture, it became mainstream long ago. Although it still carries the essence of youth, evergreen energy.
Japanese denim expanded the standards by which premium denim is judged. Levi’s 501 jeans were the original and undoubtedly amazing. But Japanese denim stretched the definition of quality and perfection.
Those who don’t know us We are team Muslin Dhaka. A dedicated team focused on fabric history, craftsmanship, and heritage luxury textiles. We offer most expensive fabric & fashion like Dhaka Muslin. We curate other luxury as well. With our 50 years of cumulative experience and expertise in the heritage luxury trade, provide the most accurate information about luxury fabric & fashion.
In this article, We collected, experience & experiment with Japanese jeans for months. Share all our wisdom from theory & real-life experience on raw selvedge denim and Japanese selvedge denim.
So here we go. Find out everything about this jap denim fabric.
What is Japanese Denim?
Japanese jeans is a denim textile made in Japan using traditional techniques. Those denim are hand-dyed with organic indigo and woven on old shuttle looms by expert craftsmen. They are woven with old machines and contain perfect craftsmanship. All the denim of Japan may not be regarded as Japanese denim.
There are no set rules. But there are some major differences between regular denim and Japanese denim. We will discuss the characteristics below.
There are about 40 mainstream Japanese selvedge denim companies in Japan, but the product is not made equally. One of the major characteristics of Japanese jeans is that every pair is different. You can relate it to your fingerprints.
Nili Lotan, Renowned Fashion Designer, said,
“Japanese denim is considered the gold standard of denim worldwide. Not just because it’s trendy, but because of craftsmanship, heritage, and fabric quality that few other manufacturers in the world match.”
Denimology
At a Glance
Industrial Name: Japanese Denim.
Origin Kojima in southern Kurashiki, Okayama, Japan. 50 years ago.
Other Names: selvedge ID, Selvedge denim.
Construction: Twill weave. Requires 40% more cotton yarns than regular denim.
Weight: 20 ounces typically.
Color: indigo denim, ideally.
Airflow: Low.
Moisture Absorbance: Low.
Weaving: Twill weave with strong warp threads.
Stretch: No.
Heat Insulation: Less.
Shrinkage Ratio Very: low.
Usage: Japanese jeans pants are famous worldwide: tops, shirts, jackets & many more.
What is the history of Japanese Denim?
The history of Japanese denim is fascinating. It shows an interesting point of view— how cultures mix and change our tastes. Denim is undoubtedly one of the most popular and historical fabrics of all.
Muslin Dhaka team has covered denim in a separate article. There, you can find the history of Original Denim, how it started to become popular, and much more. If you are interested, please read Amazing Denim Fabric. We will cover just selvedge denim here.
It all started at the end of the Second World War in Japan. The American soldiers sold their jeans and went to their homes. Later, those jeans are sold in the black market to the native Japanese.
Wait, the actual story starts even before. America had a great influence on the Japanese people. American rock and roll, film, music, and pop stars were very popular among the young Japanese. And guess what, most American celebrities used to wear jeans! Alvin Lee and other stars were massive influences.
When the Japanese got the chance to buy Jeans, the demand skyrocketed immediately. But it was not easy to import jeans from America. Still, some people started importing it. But created more problems.
Jean was known as a “Rebel Without a Cause”. It was for counterculture youth. But most of the young people were not capable of buying imported jeans.
The Japanese people used second-hand soft and comfortable denim first. But the imported new ones are stiff and too dark. Naturally, those did not satisfy the Japanese. That’s when they decided to play the game with their own rules.
Production of selvedge denim
The Japanese had hundreds of years of history in crafting fabrics. There were established industries for different fabrics. Moreover, Japanese people were better with indigo than Americans.
When they wanted to make their own denim, they set their goal to make the same like comfortable as second-hand jeans. Not like the new ones! After many trials and errors, they made something better than the original.
In 1920, production started in a small town named Kojima in Okayama. After its success, more and more people became interested in it. From that period, Japanese jeans never looked back. Kurabo Mills and Kurabo Denim later became important names in the story.
What is the Wabi-sabi of Japanese Denim?
Wabi-sabi is the Japanese word that refers to a philosophy that says, beauty in imperfection. I used that term for denim for a reason.
Japanese denim is a good example of that. Production started in the 1920s. The technology has advanced so far. But still, people want the same jeans from the past. They want it to be made with the same machine, in the same way. Many buyers value the heritage methods and character unique to older production techniques.
The old Japanese jeans have their imperfections, too. It’s heavy and a bit uneven. Modern looms might create 100 times more accurate fabric than that. For enthusiasts, character and authenticity matter more than sterile perfection. It’s not achievable with perfection; it only lies in originality, tradition & history.
How is Japanese denim made?
This denim is made in three major steps: dyeing, weaving, and tailoring. Those processes can, of course, vary depending on the company. But let’s go for the most standard and preferable way of making raw selvedge denim.
Step 1: Indigo dyeing
Japanese denim is dyed with natural indigo. Natural indigo is about 10 times more expensive than artificial indigo. This is just another reason why this denim is expensive. But certainly, there are many more.
Dyeing with organic indigo warp threads may look very simple, but it’s a form of art. The threads must go through 30 cycles of the dyeing and drying process. In each cycle, a skilled person submerges the yarn in a drum of indigo.
After it completely absorbs the indigo, a man squeezes skillfully so a precise amount of color remains in the yarn. Then the yarns are dried. The process is repeated 30 times. The dyeing step can take about 1-2 months.
Dyeing with natural indigo needs to be done accurately. A machine or automation can not do it like a human with years of experience and training. Some makers also use rope dyed yarns for depth of color.
Step 2: Weaving
Ideally, the weaving is done with a Yamaha shuttle loom. The loom originated in the 1920s. Later, the parts of the machine were used to make an automatic machine by the Toyoda Automatic Loom Works. That machine is still used to make classic Japanese Denim fabric.
The weaving machine is at least five times slower than regular machines. It is also a bit inaccurate, resulting in a bit of unevenness in the denim. This became a signature of selvedge denim. Moreover, the machine produces denim fabric that is heavier, thicker, and more compact.
There are hand looms for selvedge Denim, too. They take even longer than an automatic loom. Handmade Japanese denim is known as gold-labeled and is more expensive. Many enthusiasts seek vintage Toyoda loom output.
Tailoring
The final process of producing this denim is tailoring. Tailors who make jeans and jackets with denim fabric have decades of experience. Even then, they find it very difficult to work with Japanese denim. Remember, as we mentioned, this denim is thicker and heavier than other denim. Now imagine sewing and working with a thick fabric. The process takes lots of hard work, attention to detail, and plenty of time. Made in Japan, the quality is evident in every stitch, often finished with chain stitch hems or Union Special chain-stitched hems.
What are the types of Japanese Denim?
When it comes to the type of Japanese denim, it gets a bit foggy. There is no actual typing of selvedge denim. But depending on how it is made, it can be characterized. The production process impacts the price and quality a lot.
Traditional machine-woven, hand-dyed Denim
This is the ideal type of Japanese denim. It’s produced with a 1900s weaving machine that was automated later, which is important for the signature characters of Japanese denim. It’s also hand-dyed with natural indigo blue, and the dyeing process can take up to two months.
Handwoven selvedge denim
Hand-woven Japanese denim is even more premium and luxurious than traditional denim. Those have a smoother texture than machine-woven selvedge denim. The other processes are the same. The handweaving of denim is very slow and takes a lot of time. It’s the most expensive type of Japanese denim.
Other lower forms of selvedge denim
You may have already noticed that original Japanese denim must have a few signature characteristics.
- It must be woven with traditional techniques.
- Hand-dyed by a skilled person
- Hand-sewed and processed.
Because production is so complicated, it’s hard to produce a lot of it. So, some companies may sacrifice one or two traditional ways to bring down the cost. Some may be produced with a modern loom, some may be automatically dyed, etc.
Those are not lower in quality by any means, but those are not the pure form of Japanese denim. This is important to lower the production cost and make it more accessible to more people. But if someone is passionate, they can always consider the pure ones.
What are the characteristics Japanese Denim?
This Denim is a bit different from the denim we know. Let’s explore them in the following points.
Cotton
Japanese denim is made of the highest-quality organic cotton, which has long fibers. The size of the fibers is one of the secrets of selvedge denim’s longevity.
Appearance
This denim looks premium. But it’s not that distinguishable by looking from a distance. It comes in a rich indigo-blue color. The edges of the denim are nicely finished and sewn. The name salvage came from its self-edge.
Weight
Japanese selvedge denim is a lot heavier than regular jeans. For example, Levi jeans weigh 11-12 ounces, whereas Japanese denim can weigh 20 to 35 ounces. As it uses a shuttle loom and traditional technique, it requires 2 to 3 times more yarn than regular. This contributes to its heavyweight.
Feel
Japanese jeans fabrics are rough and a bit uneven. It does not have a smooth texture. However, overall, it’s soft and comfortable enough for denim lovers. The fabric is made with a Toyota shuttle loom, which originated in the 1980s. The loom is not as accurate as modern ones. It creates small imperfections that result in the roughness.
Breathability
As a heavy and thick fabric, you can’t expect it to be breathable. But it also has a low-insulating character. So, you will not feel any sort of discomfort wearing it. It’s true for most types of denim.
Heat absorption
This denim also has a low heat absorption rate. You can easily go out in the sun wearing it without a problem. Its heat absorption rate is even lower than that of regular denim. This happens because of its compact nature and weight.
Stretch
Japanese denim does not stretch at all. It gets softer with time but has a rigid character.
Water absorption
Selvedge denim is a bit slow to absorb water. But still decent. As it contains a lot of material, it can also absorb a lot of water. So if you wash it, don’t expect it to dry soon.
Shrinkage
Most cotton fabric shrinks by 2-7% in the first few washes. This denim is not an exception. But its shrinkage rate is generally too little to notice, depending on the quality.
Durability
Selvedge denim is the most durable kind of denim in the denim market. With proper care and maintenance, it can last up to a decade.
Dye
Dying Japanese denim is probably the most complicated and artistic part. Every thread of the denim goes through 30 or more cycles of dying. Let’s not forget the beauty of denim flourishes with each wash. It fades beautifully and creates a stylish appeal.
What is Japanese Denim and Sustainability?
This luxurious Denim is one of the most sustainable fabrics you will find today. The fabric will last at least a decade. It’s not like you store it in your wardrobe and wear it a few times a year for a decade. You can use it regularly with proper maintenance. That is close to the maximum level of sustainability.
There are other factors, obviously, such as the materials used and production. But if one uses it for a lifetime, those factors become very small. Although most of the materials and production processes include handmade and natural ways, cotton may not be the most sustainable due to its high water use. On the other hand, indigo is relatively environmentally friendly.
What are the uses of Japanese denim?
The uses of Japanese denim are quite specific. Japanese selvedge denim is the signature product of the textile. We can also say that fabric was born to make jeans. However, selvedge denim is a great suit for Jackets too.
It became increasingly popular in recent years. There are other Japanese denim product
s, such as skirts, shorts, and three-quarter pants, etc. Now it’s using almost all types of attire, both male & female. So many reputed brands using this unique textile.
What are the advantages and drawback of Japanese selvedge denim?
Now let’s get a quick overview of the pros and cons.
Advantages
- Aesthetic and timeless design.
- Looks vintage (heritage designs).
- Perfect design and finishing.
- Durable and lasts longer.
- Luxury fabric doesn’t require that luxury treatment.
- Fades beautifully.
- Incomparable with other types of jeans.
Disadvantages
- They are heavier than other jeans.
- It takes time to soften and get used to.
- Hard to wash as it’s heavy and compact.
Regular Denim vs Japanese Denim
Regular denim and Japanese denim have some notable differences. Check them below.
- Regular denim weighs about 11-12 ounces, and raw selvedge denim weighs 20 to 35 ounces.
- Regular denim is smoother, while selvedge denim has a rough and uneven texture (shuttle loom-woven hank dyed jeans).
- Regular denim has more accurate weaving, but Japanese ones are not as precise.
- Normal denim is made with modern technology, and Japanese denim is made with traditional techniques and advanced technology.
- Japanese denim can cost 20-30 times more than regular denim jeans.
How to Care for Japanese Denim?
Caring for this denim is not as sensitive as other luxury fabrics. But there are some best practices that you must follow.
It’s best to wash your denim as few times as possible to make the shades last for longer. But the maintenance and washing depend on personal preference, too. If you want faded rock and roll style jeans, you can, of course, wash them a bit frequently and gently. When you reach the perfect shade, you may want to slow it down.
However, let’s talk about the standard practice where you want to last your jeans as long as possible.
First, wear it until it becomes visibly dirty or smelly. Depending on your lifestyle and how often you wear it, it may need to be washed once or twice a month.
Here are the washing steps you can follow.
- Avoid the washing machine; prepare for hand washing with cold water.
- Turn your clothes inside out to minimize any chance of damage in the right part.
- Soak your Japanese denim in a jeans-friendly organic detergent water for one hour.
- Rub the dirty party and agitate the cloth gently.
- Let the cloth sit for another 15 min.
- Now wash it with cold, clear water until the soap disappears.
- Hang it in a windy, cold place. It should dry within 12-19 hours.
- Do not dry Japanese denim in the sun.
Japanese Denim by the Yard
Original Japanese denim may not be easy to find by the yard. You can buy readymade garments. Or order them with your specific sizes.
However, Japanese Denim fabric can be found in some places. They range from 15-50$ by the yard depending on quality, origin, etc. Look for Left Hand Twill Selvedge or Fat Fox Selvedge for unique projects.
Where can you buy Denim?
You can browse the best Japanese denim brand and choose your favorite ones. Some brands have brick & mortar stores in different places around the world.
Even you may need to visit Japan if you want to buy the most luxurious types of selvedge denim!
Here are a the best Japanese denim brands for You –
- Momotaro Jeans (famous for the Japanese legend of Momotaro and the peach selvedge ID)
- Oni Denim
- Blue Blue Japan
- Sugar cane & co,
- Iron Heart
- Samurai jeans (Japanese folklore inspired)
- Studio D’Artisan
- Sugar Cane (using sugar cane fibers)
- Naked & Famous Denim (check the Strong Guy or Groovy Guy fits)
- Pure Blue Japan
- Japan Blue Jeans
Please read our complete buying guide 7 best japanese denim brands. For DIY projects, go for the 7 best japanese denim fabrics. Another great textile is in Kurabo Denim. Kurabo industries shows the Japanese innovation in their premier brand. We include them in our recommendations.
Etsy, Amazon, Mr. Porter, Net-a-Porter, Fartech & any famous luxury fashion marketplace is good to buy authentic Japanese Jeans! You can even find them at the heritage superstore Hinoya.
FAQ
Can I put my selvedge denim in the dryer?
No. It can damage the fabric fiber and fade the color. Hang your Japanese jeans in a dark and cool place.
How can you tell Japanese Denim?
Japanese denim has a bit of an uneven texture and irregular textures. It’s heavier and more compact than other denim.
Conclusion
Japanese denim is not just a luxury fabric. It carries a story of cultural fusion. A desire to be free in a rebellious way. Jeans are undoubtedly amazing, but Japanese ones hit the threshold of greatness. That’s why denim lovers do not hesitate to spend thousands for rare jeans.
Wanna know more fascinating fabric stories? Please read the Most Expensive Fabrics & fashion.
