Last Updated on February 2, 2023 by Shariful Alam
If you go through the history of Dhaka as well as Bangladesh the 1st thing you’ll get is muslin. Although it is lost in the evolution of time and the conspiracy of the British empire. But the only variety of muslin is still alive, Jamdani fabric specially Jamdani Saree! Its peerless weaving, elegant motifs, lightweight nature, and high comfort make it unbeatable.
Jamdani is a centuries-old form of weaving that originated in Bangladesh. The word “Jamdani” comes from the Persian words “Jam” (flower) and “Dani” (vase), referring to the intricate floral patterns that are characteristic of this type of fabric. Jamdani sarees were made from the finest cotton, handwoven on a brocade loom. Right now jamdani produces Salwar-suit, Kurtis, Panjabies, lehengas, and many more.
But Jamdani sarees have a different level of customers because of the huge range of colors. Jamdani saree is a complete 6-yard of art with an unparalleled weaving technique and a golden history. Jamdani sarees are often passed down from generation to generation, and they are considered to be heirlooms.
What is Jamdani Saree?
Jamdani sarees are one of the most iconic features of Bangladeshi culture, with their intricate pattern and mesmerizing sheen. The presence of the saree can be assumed from the 13th century woven in Bengal. Also known as Dhakai Jamdani sarees. They are woven on a simple loom and feature intricate motifs. Crafted from pure cotton, jamdani sarees are lightweight and comfortable, making them perfect for all seasons.
The beauty of these sarees is not just aesthetic, as each piece is hand-woven by artisans using old-world techniques that have been passed down for generations. The Saree is beautiful, extremely fine weave, and very popular with women who are looking for ethnic clothing. Whether you’re looking to add traditional ethnic clothing to your wardrobe or simply want to learn more about this spectacular style, jamdani sarees are a must-have.
Jamdani Saree Origin History
It is not mentioned when it was invented or what is the starting point of jamdani. But the presence of this elegant cloth was found in history in the 16th century. At that time it was a variety of Muslin fabric, affordable muslin. It was used for weddings or festivals. Due to its shimmery and festive look, it was accepted in the upper class of society over time.
During the Mughal period especially during the rule of the emperor, Akbar jamdani got its wings. Many businessmen and traders had an eye on this jamdani moreover the muslin industry. During the Mughal period, there were many paintings of the emperor of women from Mughal-e-haram who are wearing jamdani. Weddings were not completed without jamdani.
Jamdani has its roots in Sonargaon, Dhaka, Bangladesh. Jamdani not only needs a god-gifted waving technique but also needs a fragile nature. It needs cold weather, especially monsoon. Sonargaon was the perfect place to create it as it was on the bank of the Shitalakka river. It was the center of jamdani saree waving. Right now it is shifted to Noapara, Rupganj, and Narayanganj. But still, Sonargaon provides the finest jamdani. In October 2019, Sonargaon was declared by the world craft council as “The World Craft City”.
Art of Jamdani Weaving
Jamdani is not less than an art. The weaving technique is magic we can say. With many benefits, the Jamdani saree has exquisite designs. The contact with the base fabric and threads makes it scrumptious. Myriad weavers deployed their expertise in creating eye-catchy motifs and patterns. An interesting fact is that there is no need for a designer for its weaving technique. Whereas the weaver is the master designer.
The fabric is made of cotton and is handwoven on a loom. The fabric is light and airy, making it perfect for the hot weather. The sarees are often adorned with gold or silver thread, giving them a regal look. Jamdani sarees are woven on a brocade loom and the process of weaving is unique.
The weaver weaves a design on his loom by picking up different threads from the weft. Only one thread at a time passes through the needle, thus it takes the weaver a lot of time to weave one saree. The fabric is known for its softness, lightness, and durability. In addition to being beautiful, jamdani sarees are also comfortable to wear and easy to maintain. It’s the heritage of Bengal.
These are some common patterns you’ll notice on Jamdani sarees-
- Panna Hazar
- Duria etc.
Types of jamdani sarees
There are different types or categories of Jamdani Sarees available on market. We know this is just a glimpse of the ancient Jamdani saree that we get nowadays. This is the only variety of muslin which is existing til now. For this reason, it has a high demand for both fabric and motifs. So we have divided the types into two main parts which are-
The Purest of Jamdani
Jamdani sarees are typically made from cotton, and they often feature intricate designs. The sarees were usually white or off-white in color, but they have different colors. These are adorned with colorful designs. The most authentic jamdani sarees are made in Bangladesh and some states of West Bengal. They come in different floral and geographical motifs. These patterns are inspired by nature.
1. Dhakai Jamdani:
The Dhakai Jamdani Saree is a classic hand-woven Jamdani Saree that has roots in Dhaka, Bangladesh. The exquisite design with a delicate weaving process makes it a truly unique piece. It is the first choice for any occasion.
2. Muslin Jamdani:
Muslin Jamdani is a type of fine muslin cloth that is decorated with motifs that are woven on the loom. The cloth is typically light in color, although a mixture of cotton and gold or silver thread is often used. Their beauty, traditional design, and the fact that they are handwoven are popularly known everywhere.
3. Tangail Jamdani:
This Tangail jamdani saree originated, as its name suggests, in Tangail, Bangladesh. Tangail Jamdani sarees are a beautiful example of traditional Bangladeshi craftsmanship and are often worn on special occasions. These sarees are traditionally handwoven and are made from pure cotton. It has exquisite floral designs and border motifs.
4. Shantipuri Jamdani:
There are some weavers in West Bengal, India who create their own special version called Shantipuri jamdani. Shantipur is located in Nadia, West Bengal. It is renowned for stunning and traditional handwoven designs. These sarees are perfect for special occasions and add a touch of elegance to any outfit. Shantipuri jamdani are similer to Tangail jamdani.
5. Dhaniakhali Jamdani:
Dhaniakhali Jamdani sarees are a type of jamdani that originated in Hoogly, Kolkata, India. They are different from other Jamdani sarees in that they have a tighter weave. The main difference is that Dhaniakhali Jamdanis are bright with dark and bold color borders.
6. Soft Jamdani:
The beautiful and traditional Bengali Soft Jamdani is handwoven from pure cotton and typically white or off-white in color, with intricate designs woven into the fabric. The Soft Jamdani saree is increasingly popular due to its believed comfortability, as compared to the semi-stiff version of the Dhakai Jamdani saree. The most popular colors for soft Dhakai Jamdani sarees are yellow, red, and pink.
The Deviation of Jamdani
Authentic Jamdani that our ancestors made, had a unique process of weaving. The exquisite design has been very covetable. As time passed Jamdani has gone through many deviations which are actually not pure Jamdani. As they have jamdani motifs or patterns/filters on them either machine woven or printed. But they don’t consist of all the particularities of the authentic ancient ones. Though they are not the purest form of jamdani, also have a high demand for a fusion “Jamdani”.
Let’s know about them-
1. Kota Jamdani:
Basically, Jamdani patterns are woven on Kota Silk saree, or fabrics are called Kota jamdani. Kota fabrics are a blend of cotton and silk. They are woven in visible square check patterns. It is also light, airy, soft, and comfortable.
2. Linen Jamdani Saree:
Linen is a very strong and soft fabric made from flax plants. This is not fluffier as cotton and is a bit less airy. Jamdani motifs and patterns on linen sarees are named linen jamdani saree.
3. Matka Jamdani silk sarees:
Matka cloth comes from a silk from India. Silk comes from Cocoons. A moth born from cocoons & come out of silk worm. Fine fabrics are made from these cocoons Yarn called “Matka cloth.”
When these sarees are decorated with Jamdani floral patterns, making them even more beautiful, they are recognized as Matka jamdani silk sarees.
4. Khadi Jamdani:
Kadhi Jamdanis are extremely light and soft. These are easy to drape and excellent for go-to-daily wear. You can carry this with minimalist accessories. These are very weather friendly like in summertime you’ll feel cool and a winter you’re gonna feel warm.
5. Pure Silk Jamdani:
Jamdani motifs are commendable, as it requires great skill to produce patterns of various colors and designs on pure silk. When this art of elegance comes in pure silk obviously it’s pure silk jamdani and this has a high demand in any shop or market.
6. Banarasi Jamdani:
Banarasi Jamdani is one of the finest creatures from Banarasi loom or Banarasi textile. This is woven in a brocade loom which has a technical combination. These Banarasi sarees are exquisitely decorated with shimmery or jari threads.
7. Resham Silk Jamdani
Resham silk jamdani saree are totally handloom and they’ve embellishments jamdani like motifs, anchal, and border. These also have extra-weft techniques. Though they don’t have authentic jamdani-like smooth finishing. Still, they’re very popular.
Yarn variation : Jamdani
As all know jamdani is the only variety of Muslin which is high in demand. In ancient times the very first work artisan do was yarn making. It was a fully handmade process and time-consuming. Basically, the yarn came in just white colors. Then the weavers had to dye them in different colors. That time it came in just cotton threads, no variety was present.
Now let’s talk about this revolutionary era. Now authentic Dhakai or Muslin jamdani is still made by handloom. But weavers get the basic color yarns ready to use. So that the time consumption and hard labor have been reduced a bit. As we know there are many types of jamdani is present in the market and there are lots of fabric variations. That’s why many types of yearns are available in the market. Like cotton, half silk, full silk, nylon, rayon, polyester, and many more.
Bridal jamdani Saree
Jamdani sarees are creating over hype these days that’s why our youngster girls are choosing Jamdani for their most special day. Jamdani as a wedding dress is not new. In ancient times Jamdani was mainly used for festive and wedding purposes. The heritage luckily has started again which actually showcases a very aristocratic taste.
Red or maroon saree has been a mandatory wedding dress for South Asia for eras. Especially in India, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Srilanka, and Nepal. Lately, other colors have taken their place as wedding attire. Jamdani Sarees has supreme elegance, different colors make it more trendy. The red, and maroon sarees, other colors have taken place which looks very fashionable.
Different shades of Orange, Yellow, and Greens are common colors for Mehendi and Turmeric ceremonies. While different shades of Red, Maroon, and Magenta are common for wedding ceremonies. But interestingly, Golden, Grey, White, Pink, Purple, Aqua, Mint, and many more bright colors are getting very famous recently. Just google & witness this colorful tour of jamdani brides.
Designer jamdani saree
Jamdani sari is one of the ancient wonders of the textile industry which fascinates everyone.
Popular actresses, fashion designers, cultural personalities, and even political leaders have chosen the jamdani saree in their attire list. Jamdani sari has been hidden from the modern world for so long. But now Jamdani is on the list of first-class clothes. Many famous fashion designers are introducing Jamdani to the world in a new way.
Especially in India, Bangladesh and Pakistani Jamdani sarees are one of the most popular choices for media personalities. Few colors are so popular that many stars have adopted them for their special occasions. Let’s know about them-
Recently Bollywood famous actress Alia Bhatt wore a White Jamdani saree in promotions of her new film Gangubai. It looked incredible with a long ear-rings, sleeveless blouse, and white peonies on her sleek and tight hair bun. Jaya Bachchan was also shown in white jamdani with a red border which is considered to be a part of religious traditions. Also, Vidiya Balan, Aishwariya Ray Bachchan, Kiran Kher, Mahira Khan, Tabu, and many more actresses have been seen in this white jamdani at different times.
On the other hand, Priyanka Chopra has a huge obsession with yellow jamdani sarees. Whether it’s Laxmi puja at home or receiving a National award from PM her 1st choice is a soft yellow Jamdani and that must be a Dhakai Jamdani from Basak Para, Phulia. Being Bangali, Vidiya Balan and Rani Mukharjee always have an obsession with the jamdani saree. They were seen in Red, Black, and other colors of Jamdanis.
Now coming to Bangladesh, Nusrat Imroz Tisha was seen in a white jamdani saree with gold jewelry at her wedding reception. Likewise, Bidiya Sinha Mim has a huge collection of jamdani which is visible in her photos. Especially, she wore a yellow Jamdani saree in her turmeric ceremony. Similarly, Rafiath Rashid Mithila wore an eye-catchy red Jamdani at her wedding. She is also noticed at many events wearing Jamdani sarees.
Jaya Ahsan is famous in both east and west Bengal for her amazing acting. You can see her in lots of photos wearing a Jamdani saree at many of her special events.
Azmeri Haque Badhon has spread the radiance of her beauty by wearing an exquisite Dhakai Jamdani at the 74th Cannes film festival 2021. She looked totally different from other super starts wearing western dresses.
Apart from them, most media personalities are obsessed with jamdani sarees. And there is no one who doesn’t have a bunch of jamdani collections in her closet.
Accessories with Jamdani Sari
Jamdani sarees come in a variety of colors and patterns, so there is sure to be one that suits your taste. Whether you’re looking for a saree for a special occasion or just want to add a touch of elegance to your wardrobe, the sarees are a great choice. To take it a stage further, you can add some accessories which will make your look different from others.
Let’s get some ideas for adding accessories items with your jamdani —
- A pair of gold or silver or statement jewelry like earrings, necklace, bracelet. anklet, ring, and a nose pin.
- A bindi is a small, round dot that girls wear on their foreheads.
- A maang tikka is a traditional Asian headpiece worn by women. It is a piece of jewelry that is worn on the center part of the forehead.
- A stack of bangles makes any outfit look adorable.
- A matching shawl or stole or scarf.
- A bejeweled belt.
- A pair of Jutti heals or semi-heals.
- A nice elegant brooch.
- A nice, classy, and matching clutch bag.
The current problem of Jamdani Saree
From the Mughal empire to this fashion-forward generation, Jamdani has the same popularity. Despite its beauty, the jamdani saree is currently facing a number of problems. That’s why the Jamdani industry is suffering from uncertainty and the younger generation is not interested in learning the skill.
Let’s know about the problems-
- First, the traditional process of making jamdani sarees is a very slow and painstaking process, that’s why next-generation finds this monotonous
- The number of people who know how to make jamdani sarees is declining, as they don’t get sufficient wages. That’s why maximum of them are unwilling to continue the inheritance custom.
- Moreover, weavers often suffer from health problems like eyesight issues and respiratory disorders. So, lots of skilled artisans are getting unable to work.
- Machine-made imitations of jamdani sarees are becoming increasingly common, whereas the handloom jamdani is getting backward. This threatens the authentic hand-made Jamdani.
- Due to having lots of affordable options available in the market and jamdani being so pricy, the focus has been shifted to other fabrics.
- There are lots of fake copies of Jamdani available in the market.
- Other problems include a lack of raw materials and the high cost of production.
- Fashion designers are reviving lots of fabrics whereas jamdani is not getting enough attention.
- Jamdani is not getting enough patronage.
Remedey of Jamdani Industry
The Jamdani saree industry is facing a number of problems, including a decline in demand and a lack of skilled workers. Despite these challenges, jamdani sarees remain popular among those who appreciate their beauty and value the tradition of handmade clothing.
However, there are a number of ways to revive the industry–
- First of all, these sarees are traditional, handwoven, and pure. They have a unique beauty that should be promoted to potential customers all around the world.
- It is important to train new workers in the skills necessary to produce these sarees. With a combination of marketing and training, the Jamdani industry can be revived and continue to thrive.
- As we all know, weavers face many health issues so the government or social associations need to secure their health issues and costs.
- Jamdani is total handcrafted art. So when they start with yarn making and end at cutting and wrapping. it’s been a huge time. If possible their work should be divided into sections so that their work gets divided and time consumption will decrease.
- Designers should step ahead and take initiative to increase the variety and help weavers to make it more fashionable.
- It’s necessary to provide financial incentives to producers and weavers so that they can be more solvent and encourage the next generation to peruse the heritage.
- The government also needs to take some strong steps to promote this traditional craft so that more people can use it and preserve our glorious heritage.
- Finally, it is important to increase awareness of the plight of the Jamdani saree industry so that consumers can make informed choices about their purchases.
Geographical Indication (GI)
Jamdani is the 1st item from Bangladesh that got Geographical Indication. Wikipedia states, “A geographical indication (GI) is a name or sign used on products which correspond to a specific geographical location, place or origin (e.g., a town, region, or country). The use of a geographical indication, as an indication of the product’s source, acts as a certification that the product possesses certain qualities, is made according to traditional methods, or enjoys a good reputation due to its geographical origin.”
The Department of Patents, Designs, and Trademarks (DPDT) registered Jamdani as the country’s first GI product on 17 November 2016. Bangladesh Small and Cottage Industries Corporation (BSCIC) applied to DPDT for GI registration for Jamdani in September 2015. BSCIC also submitted a list of nearly 400 Jamdani weavers. DPDT registered these weavers for using this GI tag in Jamdani sarees.
Our art of Jamdani Not only get GI but also declared intangible cultural heritage of humanity by UNESCO.
What to see Pure Jamdani Sari?
A pure Jamdani sari is just not an outfit, it’s a dream for any teenage girl or saree-loving woman.If you want to get this masterpiece should choose the original one. People says that if you buy the authentic jamdani & keep it properly will last for 3 to 4 generations easily.
There are a few things we have to keep in mind to identify the authentic one before buying. Because this quality not only ensures authenticity but also durability.
So first thing first, jamdani is made of supplementary weft technique. According to Bangladesh science foundation (BSF), ” Whether figured or flowered, jamdani is a woven fabric in cotton. This is a supplementary weft technique of weaving, where the artistic motifs are produced by a non-structural weft, in addition to the standard weft that holds the warp threads together.”
This means all the designs are made with one thread which starts and comes back to the starting line and this continues until the saree ends. Moreover, the waving is very tight.
That’s why you cannot disconnect a thread from the fabric easily or without tearing which makes it more durable.
One more important thing is because of this waving technique this jamdani feels very comfortable. There is not a single cut thread, so as usual itching problem won’t occur. Which makes it very comfortable.
Experience also helpful to identify a Master piece.
Original Jamdani saree price
Jamdani sarees are typically more expensive than other types of sarees, but they are worth the investment because of their quality and beauty. If you’re looking for a traditional, handwoven saree, a Jamdani sari is a great option.
The price actually varies depending on the designs & quality. The price is increasing in recent years. The cost of a quality Jamdani saree can be quite high.
Actually, the jamdani saree price starts from 70$. If you are getting anything on the name of jamdani under this range I completely make you’re that it’s not the original one. The price increases depending on the complexity of the designs. So that can be highest of 2500$, sometimes even more.
So The price range usd 70 to 2500 is normal. It could be more!
Where to BUY the latest Jamdani saree?
Jamdani is the pride of Bengal. Including Bengali women, every South Asian woman has a dream on her wishlist to wear an exquisite jamdani saree.
But it’s very confusing to buy jamdani saree from any shop regarding authenticity. They also provide special offers during festivals on their huge collections. So we are suggesting a bunch of online shopping stores if you’re searching for handloom Jamdani. That will be easy to check out a lot of pages of jamdani collections from many categories with home delivery benefits.
But before buying just make sure the mentioned colors are originally the same as the picture. Because sellers often use filters to make their products look attractive. So whenever you found or stand out the right one just contact the seller and make your account empty!
Now without any further delay let’s know about the shop where you can do your jamdani online shopping-
Why Jamdani sarees are expensive?
The time and effort required to make Jamdani sarees make them more expensive than other types of sarees. The money you will expend is worth their beauty and quality. Making Jamdani requires immense patience. A to Z of making Jamdani is totally handcrafted. From yarn making, dying to applying starch, even folding is totally done by human hands. A masterpiece saree with a high thread count can take 6 months to 1 year, even more. You will witness weavers’ hard labor and love for jamdani in every single thread.
Jamdani sarees are available in a wide variety of colors and designs, making them a perfect choice for any occasion. Whether you’re looking for a saree for a special event or just want to add a touch of elegance to your wardrobe, Jamdani sarees are a great option. Even if you buy a Jamdani sari at a high price, your every penny will be worth it.
Here we answer few questions that people searching for.
Is Jamdani silk or cotton?
History refers that jamdani was woven on muslin which was fine cotton. So it is clear that the original authentic jamdani is fine cotton. But right now because of the deviation Jamdani silk sarees are also available. but that can’t be considered the purest one.
Is Jamdani saree transparent?
Traditional jamdani is very lightweight, soft, and nearly transparent. But recently as we know there are many varieties of jamdani is available in the market, and some of them have different characteristics.
What is the best count for a Jamdani saree?
Jamdani saree stats from 50 counts and ends at 300 counts. but the fines start from 100 to 300 counts. The more you increase counts the finest you get.
What is the difference between Dhakai and Jamdani?
In the Mughal empire, the finest jamdani saree was produced in Dhaka, Bangladesh. That’s why it was called Dhakai jamdani. Some time even Dhakai refers to Dhakai Jamdani.
There are few places jamdani & it’s deviation is produced. The differ from Dhakai. The quality of Dhaka Jamdani is best from Others Jamdani & Jamdani fusion.
How do you soften jamdani saree?
Jamdani sarees are fully starched as it is a process of weaving. That’s why it gets hard. This can be softened after a wash. But it is a delicate fabric. So wash it carefully.
How to wash jamdani?
As Jamdani is a delicate fabric, you can’t machine wash it. Wash your jamdani with delicate fabric detergent or shampoo. Don’t use the washing machine. Use hands and soft wash with normal water.
How to take care of Jamdani saree?
You should take proper care of your Jamdani saree. Here are some tips on how to do that:
- Avoid washing your jamdani saree too often. If it does need to be washed, handwash it in cold water using a mild detergent
- Don’t dry your jamdani saree in the sun or on a hot stove. This can damage the fabric.
- Don’t use too much force when stretching or folding your jamdani saree.
Conclusion: Jamdani saree
Jamdani is a blend of history, fashion & elegance. In the Mughal era, the Jamdani saree was a synonym for beauty. It was not only just because of the greatness and beauty of the fabric but also conveyed emotions and attitudes in different ways. All this made it unique from other traditional textiles.
With enough patronage, the Jamdani saree industry can get the highest attention around the world. With the time and effort that goes into making them, Jamdani sarees are considered to be works of art. If you’re looking for a traditional, handwoven saree that is sure to turn heads, then a Jamdani saree is a perfect choice. So buy your one and get true luxury.